On the western slope of this hill we came to that little gem of art, now in ruin, the " Porcelain " Pagoda. It is perfect in proportion, rising in all its glory of porcelain tiles of all colours—one of the fairest bits of architecture in China. I felt thankful that it had been spared from total destruction, at that time of devilment when revenge was uppermost in men's minds.
Of this beautiful thing I was able to do a small sketch. Near by are other pagodas, and below us the ruins of temples, but nothing to compare with it. The colours are mellowed by age, but still glitter in patches.
Such a beautiful thing made me think of what Napoleon was reported to have said of Antwerp Cathe dral—that it should be kept under glass. I trust it may be preserved for the admiration and instruction of coming generations.
We trudged. back to our ponies. I found mine lively as ever ; fifteen miles seemed nothing to him, and his circus performance began again immediately I attempted to mount, much to the amusement of the crowd. By this time I had suggested to my friend that his whole idea in asking me to ride with him was that he wanted his new pony broken in ; of course he denied this, but even now I think he had designs of that kind. On our
return journey I was so fully occupied in holding in this brute that I saw little else. At one point, inside the city gates and near the Coal Hill walls, he tried to bolt, and I had to use my whip, which seemed a great surprise to him. He bucked and reared ; but it was no use, and my return was made safely.
One delightful day I spent in riding out to the Peking Racecourse. Here, as wherever a few Westerners con gregate, is some sport. The course is some miles outside the walls, and we came to it by devious paths across fields, &c., my mount bolting at the last and entering the grounds by the pavilion in a most racy fashion.
From here we watched some trials ; my friend's pony, on which I rode, being put round in good style by a friendly jockey.
I had been invited to lunch, and, even at this distance from the city, nothing was lacking. Here, as elsewhere in China, the foreigners, who are gathered together mostly to make money, take good care to have a few of the luxuries of life at hand, and the Chinese boy aids greatly in procuring them.