The boat life of China, and of Canton in particular, is a thing by itself ; nowhere else is it to be found to the same extent ; nowhere else can be seen thousands of craft massed together, seething as it were, and suddenly bursting into life and movement.
What a marvellous sight it was ! to see the swarms of people, men, women and children, the boats, big junks with their sterns high up, or tiny little sampans, forming the homes in which they are born, live and die—some not even leaving them to be buried on land, but finding their last resting-place in the depths below. One sees this mass of boats spreading far and near ; covered in with all sorts of material, from the well-fitted hood, part of which slides along and makes further shelter, to the makeshift bits of matting pulled over some bent cane ; they all seem quiet —then you suddenly see an oar moved, or a mast and sail raised, and a movement begins as that boat pushes its way out of the crowd, often accompanied by much loud talk, before it gets into the open channel and goes away on its journey. All native boats in the East have eyes painted on them, the Chinese argument being Living on the foreign settlement, the Shameen at Canton—which originally was little else than a mud-flat, and is now a beautifully laid out garden-like residential town, with its turfed roads and paved walks, tennis grounds overhung and shaded by fine banyan trees—you might, but for looking out on the river with its boat life, think you were in Europe. But cross the island and look over the creek at the other side, at the native city, and you realise that here is one of the many densely populated cities of China. You note the crowds of boats again, with produce of all kinds, propelled by men, women, and children ; some by means of stern paddle-wheels, which are acted on by a sort of treadmill which the coolies walk on ; some by the single oar ; and some of the small ones even by the foot, the coolie sitting down and gripping the oar with his toes, as we would with our hands. These latter boats
are the fastest, and have, I believe, been much used for letter-carrying.
Cross the English Bridge and you are in Canton, the most Chinese city of Southern China ; penetrate into those picturesque streets, overhung by wonderful and grotesque signs, almost covered in overhead by matting and lattice work ; narrow and dimly lighted, with damp and slippery pavements and a jostling, hurrying, noisy crowd, all intent on their business, but nevertheless with time to cast a glance, sometimes suspicious, but mostly of amuse ment, at the oddly clothed foreigner.
But be careful how you go, for (if without a guide) a few minutes' walk is so confusing you will be completely lost. Here, without doubt, are the most picturesque streets in the world, and in time to come, when the people have grown less suspicious of foreigners, some able brush will show this to be so ; but I could not put an easel up in the streets, and was warned not to collect crowd, as there was considerable feeling against the British at that time.
With difficulty we made our way about the various streets, seeing the temples and curious sights, and visiting the shops, where gorgeous embroidered vestments were for sale, and where they do the delicate decoration of silverwork by inlaying with the blue feather of the kingfisher.
How quaint it all is, and how very different from anything else in the world ! You go into a shop, and the doors or gates are closed after you, and you wonder what will happen next. All that does happen is that nimble boys begin to show you goods you long to possess. Maybe a cup of tea is offered, green, without sugar or milk ; and although doubtful of the water, one takes it.
There is much bargaining and haggling. No one thinks of giving the price asked, and the Chinese ap preciate one who knows how to drive what seems a hard bargain.