Nikko teems with temples to various deities, one rather like another, and all very beautiful.
My next journey was to an out - of- the - way little fishing-village called Katsuura, to reach which I went through by rail and beyond Tokio and by ricksha some hours' ride, a rather long and tedious journey. On arrival my ricksha men, without instructions, took me to the principal inn—a purely native one, but for clean liness and attention not to be surpassed. No English was spoken there, and, as I spoke no Japanese, the situation was rather amusing.
To obtain a bedroom, I put my head on my hand and closed my eyes ; that settled that point, and I was led to a clean and bright room on the first floor, with sliding panels, wide open on to a verandah from which I had a fine view over the town and shore away to sea.
To signify that I was hungry, I held my waistcoat out to show that it was slack, and very soon had food put before me, some rice, eggs, and tea. I found there was no bread and no potatoes, but they obtained some small biscuits which served my purpose. While here I think I may say I lived the simple life.
Sitting in my room one evening I heard strains of music, and, to my astonishment, the tune was that of " Auld Lang Syne." Going on the verandah I found that the music came from another room, and the players were a young Jap playing the violin, and his companion, a lady, playing the piano. I had not expected to hear the melody of my native land in this out-of-the-way Japanese fishing-village.
Apparently the natives here were not used to foreigners. My appearance outside at once attracted a
crowd, who followed me wherever I went ; when I sat down to sketch they proved almost more curious than the Chinese. The policeman of the place was apparently apprised of my visit, and came to examine what I was doing, but seemed to find no fault and let me go on.
Tokio is the political capital, and is situated partly on low ground and partly on hills. The Sheba temples, and many other beautiful and interesting buildings, would well repay a far longer visit than I could give them.
On my return voyage we stopped in the Straits of Shimonosaki, on one side of which is the town famous as the place where the Treaty of Peace between China and Japan was arranged by Li Hung Chang and Marquis Ito. On the other side is Moja. These towns are strongly fortified, and all sketching or photography is forbidden ; and when, tempted by a very fine sunset, I got out my colour-box, it caused quite a sensation on board. One of the Japanese officers of the ship at once approached me, and said sketching was forbidden. I replied by asking if they owned the copyright of the sky, and sketched on. A superior officer then came ; but, as I was only painting sea and sky, I refused to desist, and completed my sketch. They were too much puzzled to do anything. To obtain permission for sketching takes so long that often a traveller cannot get it within the time he is staying at a place, and the officials would be well advised to make this an easier matter.