The architectural forms here show, as in all buildings in China—religious, Imperial, and domestic—that the number three, or a multiple of it, is of great moment, a sacred sign. There are three of these marble terraces, rising one above the other ; and in the third is the huge temple itself.
The building is carried and held by the usual great coloured pillars, on which rests the triple roof, covered with glazed tiles of a wonderful blue ; to see the play of the blazing sunlight on those shining blue tiles and red painted woodwork, and on the gleaming marble balus trades and terraces, is one of the grandest sights in the world.
From this I made my way to other temples of various forms, all showing great beauty. There was one with a green-tiled roof which, for the quality of the colour, was very remarkable.
From the Temple of the Year there is a series of temples, each used by the Emperor when he comes here to perform the sacred rites of his office. The last of all the covered buildings is the Emperor's robing temple. It is of exquisite form and colour, the same wondrous blue tiles being used. It is from this temple that he comes to the great open-air sacrificial altar. The form of this altar is circular ; it is enclosed within two circular walls of brick, plastered and painted red, and covered with blue tiles and pierced at regular intervals by groups of gateways, three in each group, each with tall and massive but simple pailaus.
The altar is of.white marble, and rises in three terraces to the centre and topmost, in the middle of which is set up a plain rough stone, looked on by the Chinese as holding the position of the centre of the universe.
In the outer enclosures can be seen the buildings on which the actual burnt-offerings or sacrifice of the black cattle is made.
My description of this, the most beautiful and im pressive example of architecture in existence, is lamentably wanting ; no words of mine can describe it. But let any one stand, say, in the courtyard in front of the Emperor's robing temple, and look over this scene, and I think they must feel impressed. First you see the tall stone gate ways, beautiful in simplicity and ruggedness, and serving to show up by contrast the more finished beauty of the wonderfully designed, carved, and sculptured marble of the terraced altar, with the most gorgeous roof of all overhead, the blue sky, and the sun sending down his rays of gleam ing light on these old terraces, casting shadows from the pillared balustrading, showing the cunning work on the steps, and toning and beautifying the whole into the most beautiful and impressive picture I have ever looked upon.
What would I not give to see this place at the time when those mysterious rites of worship are carried out in all the barbaric splendours of the country? To describe the many other temples within this lovely park would be superfluous, because the lesser temples are all much alike, and I fear that all suffer by comparison with the greater one.
Many days did I spend in this quiet place, working in great comfort, taking my lunch with me, enjoying the crisp sunlight of autumn, occasionally seeing a foreign visitor being shown round ; whilst almost my only onlookers were the few coolies employed to pull up some of the weeds in the courtyards. I say some, because they seemed purposely to leave many, and most of their time was spent in talking to each other.
I have remarked how easy it is for foreigners to obtain entrance to this, the most sacred place in China. It was not so before 19oo, when our troops took, and encamped in, the park to which they have ever since exercised the right of entry. One day when I was sitting peacefully at work in one of the outer rings of the altar, I heard the steady tramp of many booted feet ; and to my surprise, through the gateways of the sur rounding walls (the very gateway which would be used by the Emperor), came a company of the Cameron Highlanders. Right through and up the steps they marched, and stood round admiring the view from the " Centre of the Universe." I understand that very few Chinese except high officials have ever seen this place, it being difficult for them to obtain admission, and I believe no Chinese women are ever allowed within the walls. A foreigner, an official of high rank in the Chinese Service, drove out with his wife to visit this place, having with them a guest, a young Chinese lady. She was refused ad mission, and nothing would induce the gatekeeper to allow her within so my friends, who would not go without her, returned to Peking without seeing the temples.