At the time of his arrival in Peking there was great discussion as to how he was to enter the city. I heard it was even suggested that a temporary way of wood should be built, so that he might come in over the Wall, as he could not enter by the one chief gate reserved for the Ruler. It ended, however, in him coming by train, and being carried in by one of the ordinary gates. His followers came in by all ways : a wild-looking lot they were, broad faced and hard looking. They certainly added to the picturesqueness of the rapidly Westernising capital — this horde of mounted Lama priests, their yellow gowns streaming in the wind as they rode. There was a troop of Chinese soldiers in the procession, but the Tibetans themselves formed the principal part. The Dalai Lama was returning to the Yellow Temple from the Winter Palace, where he had been present at the enthronement of the child Emperor. I was now finishing a picture of the Summer Palace which I had been asked to do for Empress Dowager ; and as she was dead, I was in doubt what to do. I asked the Legation to make inquiries of the Wai-wu-pu, and I was told to finish the picture. I left the picture in care of our Legation until the period of mourning had passed, that it might be brought to the notice of the Prince Regent, who had been appointed to guide the destinies of China during the minority of the baby Emperor. I have heard since then that the picture has
reached the Court. When it was completed there was nothing to detain me longer in the capital ; the weather had become too severe for outside work, and I felt my time had come to return southwards. This meant the beginning of my journey home. I was lucky enough in my voyage from Tientsin to be stopped on the bar at Taku, so that I missed the full violence of a typhoon. When we got out to sea, we felt only its after-effects. In calling at Cheefoo we were informed of the loss with many lives of a Japanese steamer, which had left just before we did. We landed in Shanghai without mishap, and my few days' stay there were taken up in arrang ing for an exhibition of my pictures of China, which I had been asked to give for the benefit of a very deserv ing charity, the Home for Rescued Slave Girls.
To an artist one year is a short time ; and in a country so vast, and with such glorious treasures of art as China, it is all too short. I hope I may live to revisit the country and explore other parts of it.