The American Concession of Hongkew is reached by crossing the new iron bridge over the Soochow Creek, and has a long and valuable frontage on the Whangpoo River, where large "godowns " (warehouses) and wharves, shipbuilding and engineering yards, are springing up on every side. Lying back from the river is a large resi dential quarter. In the opposite direction by the Nankin Road one reaches the fine Racecourse and Recreation Ground, which only a few years ago was open fields. Here the foreign residents of sporting proclivities formerly held their " paper-hunts." They are obliged to go farther afield now ; but with commendable foresight this fine open space was rescued from the hands of the builder, and thus preserved for future generations. Beyond the Racecourse is the Bubbling Well Road, so called from the famous well at the farther end of it. As to this, Mr. J. R. Chitty, in his " Things Seen in China," gives an interesting story told by a Chinese Amah. "A certain young woman of low but wealthy parentage having `married well' from the social standpoint, and attained apparently to a somewhat high standard of affection for her elderly husband, found herself threatened with divorce, owing to her childless condition. Her lord having given her but one more calendar year to fulfil the obligation of presenting him with the necessary son, she wandered forth alone to bewail her fate ; for the equivalent of perpetual ' old maidhood ' lay before her, and she was but twenty-three years old, though married eight years. She sat by the well and wept to all her gods, her tears falling into the little streamlet. Presently the silent waters began to bubble furiously ; whereupon she rose up, and, adjourning to the nearest shrine, told a priest the story, and vowed that a proper joss-house should be built as near the spot as possible, if a son was born within a twelvemonth. It fell out as she desired, and the joss house was built. The proof remains in the fact that the well still bubbles I " This is one of the chief boulevards used by the foreign residents in the hot summer evenings for driving, and also by the well-to-do Chinamen, who have not been against taking advantage of some of the luxuries of the Westerners ; for among the stream of carriages on this favourite road one can see in a well-built and equipped open carriage, with mafoos (coachmen) uniformed in white linen and with a red tassel on their hats, probably three or four solemn-looking Chinese (they often more than fill the carriage)—or, again, a young spark in his high dog-cart driving his fast pony, his mafoo standing or sitting behind. I noticed that most of the Chinese of this class wore Panama hats—the only article of apparel in any way approaching our own, but usually set on the head with a knowing tip to the side, and part of the brim turned down.
The Chinese favour very fast ponies ; and so fast do they drive that the action, being forced, becomes more what we know as " pacing " than trotting. Their main idea is to pass anything else on the road.
The houses round here are well built, of European character, and often of striking architecture, varying from the more ordinary solid red brick edifice with spacious verandahs, to the black and white old English style, with one or two of even greater pretensions and almost palatial in size. They stand in considerable grounds,
with many trees, and are altogether delightful residences, from which (I can testify) is dispensed lavish hospitality. These are the homes of the well-to-do merchants ; but here and there we find that a wealthy Chinese has stepped in and purchased one, and lives under European rule, and pays his rates and taxes like any other good citizen.
Good services of electric trams connect up this and the other suburbs with the central part. The foreigner has pushed even across the big yellow Wangpoo River and built many factories, engineering and other works on the farther bank and from the Bund, which is the hub of Shanghai, constant intercourse with this quarter is kept up by numerous steam-launches. On this part of the river are anchored many ships large and small, with one or two gunboats of the Western powers always on guard, and with a few small Chinese war-vessels mostly employed in the Customs Service.
Speaking of the latter service, I had the good fortune, during my stay in Shanghai, to see a most touching scene which I should have been sorry to miss : this was nothing less than the departure of that grand old man of China, Sir Robert Hart, whose name must ever be indissolubly connected with the history of that great empire, for which he has done so much. A notable scene it was, not from its pomp or ceremony, but rather from the simplicity of it all. It impressed one with the great respect in which their chief was held by all ranks of the service over which he presided.
The Chinese love fire-works, and use them on every possible occasion and not being allowed to do so on land in a foreign settlement, they had secured some junks near by, and at the time of departure sent forth volleys of banging crackers, wheels, rockets, and the like, with a prodigious noise, amidst which the launch moved off. So departed from China one of the greatest Englishmen of our time. Long may he enjoy his well-earned rest.
There is almost as much contrast between East and West on the river, as on land. Off the native city lie scores of junks, of all kinds, some from Ningpo, with their very high sterns where the families on board live : I say families advisedly, because in many cases there are several generations on board. Grotesque painting decorates the outside, gaily coloured pictures of wondrous animals in all colours. Then there are the large junks which carry passengers to the various rivers of this part. There are other boats which seem past moving, and simply serve as homes for those on board ; and there they lie, side by side, the population passing from one to the other. They almost seem like an extension of the city itself, so thick are they. And, oh 1 the filth and dirt, the garbage of all kinds ! The measly looking cur dogs prowl about the water-side and among the boats, picking up what they can.