What wonderful inspiration made those men of old choose such a site for their building-place, what brain conceived this truly Imperial approach ? These Ming Emperors must have had the souls of artists, whatever the other side to their character. They must have had a rare sense of beauty, judging by the many beautiful creations of their time still to be seen in China— their stately houses on earth, and their resting-places in death. Alas ! that the present rulers of China do not wake and recognise the wealth of beauty they possess in relics of their past, and take some steps to preserve it from absolute ruin. Here are the magnificent ruins of three marble bridges falling to pieces from sheer neglect. That mountain torrent may at times be strong ; but the wit of man built those beautiful bridges, and surely the same wit could preserve such magnificent monuments of the past.
Having with care crossed this waterway, now almost dry, we soon reached the entrance to the temples by the tombs. There are many tombs, but we only visited one, that of Yung-ho, gaining entrance after much banging at the great gate, which was opened by a coolie who came from a persimmon-orchard close by. We inspected the yellow-roofed temples, and passed through them to a large courtyard with Cyprus and fir trees. On each side are great yellow porcelain shrines, where are burnt the annual offerings.
Then we come to the enormous hall, supported on wooden pillars of great size ; they are made, I think, of Burmese teak. What a stately hall this is ! Stepping it, I found the size about seventy yards long by about half that width : it is empty and forlorn-looking now.
Passing through this hall and down an elegant stair way, one reaches another courtyard with more cypress trees, and beyond that is the solid mass of masonry which con tains the entrance to the tomb itself. In front stands an altar-like building, on which are carved urns for joss-sticks.
The building is solidly built of stone, the first storey crenellated, and on this is more masonry with very beautiful double roofs of Imperial-yellow tiles, with wide eaves showing fine woodwork, carved and decorated.
A fitting guard-house to the tomb of an emperor We rested a while in the quietness of this courtyard, and drank tea and took refreshment we had brought with us ; then prepared for our ride back to Nankow, some twelve or more miles.
As we left the tomb evening was drawing on, and away over the plain we could see those giant stone monsters marking our way, and beyond, catching the gleams of the setting sun, I could discern that beautiful pailau. Perhaps it was the poetry of evening which made our return journey so delightful. Passing over those ruined bridges
and wending our way silently and slowly between the ranks of those weird monuments of the past impressed me very much, and, as the light fell, it grew more and more weird. The stillness was intense and almost nerve trying ; but soon we left the " holy way," and turned off to find a nearer pathway to Nankow. As the sun set the moon rose to light us on our way ; and by that light we continued our journey on our sturdy little steeds, in single file along narrow tracks, fording streams. At the end of a long day's work came the welcome from our Chinese host at the inn. What wonders I had seen that day ! I felt I had lived for something.
Next morning broke bright and glorious. What a splendid feeling it is to rise from sound sleep, in a strange place, and go outside wondering what one will see ! On this morning I went out to gaze away far, far over an un dulating plain, extending miles away to and beyond Peking. I could see distant caravans of camels wending their tor tuous way to the capital. Nearer, I made out some Peking carts and waited for them to approach, and found that on them were fixed, flag-fashion, paper signs of the names of well-known Tientsin foreign firms. Where does not the white man go in search of trade and gain ? These carts were on their way to and from the Mongolian country dis trict, with representatives sent to buy or sell goods. By exhibiting the names of the foreign firms they represent they meet with more consideration than they might otherwise do.
On this journey we added to our train an extra donkey, to carry our lunch and tea-baskets, &c., and extra wraps against rain, and soon got under weigh towards the small walled village of Nankow, which stands on the western side of the entrance to the Pass, and is overlooked by the paper-box-like forts built high up on the mountain sides. A quaint and busy little village is Nankow, Chinese with a distinct leaven of the Mongol among its inhabitants, on the direct highway between the two countries. A stopping place, it is full of people and animals coming and going ; here a string of stately camels, there a herd of ponies, among them perhaps a potential winner of a Shanghai Derby ; there a drove of goats, and, trundling along the rugged uneven pavement, a Peking cart ; what frames the riders in those carts must have to stand all the bumping I Then comes a mule-litter, with noisy drivers, and amongst all we foreigners riding along on our donkeys, and drivers picking their way through the medley. We soon got through and began the ascent of the Pass.