The paint burner ever being a menace, I would discourage its use where possible. In every instance I would have the owner of the building give his consent to its use; also that he notify his insurance company, and get a permit from it consenting to its use.
Staining of Exterior Woodwork Medium All exterior woodwork (or a portion as the case may be) to receive one coat of linseed oil stain, brushed well and uniformly into the wood. Color to be as required. Pigments to be selected for their permanency of color. Vehicle to consist of 40 per cent of 160 degree benzole and 60 per cent raw linseed oil; all nailholes and other imperfections to be closed with lead putty colored to match stain; then apply one good coat of raw linseed oil containing 10 per cent turpentine. (See Note 3.) First-Class —Specify one additional coat of oil ing 10 per cent turpentine. (See Note 3.) Staining Shingles —Dip shingles two-thirds their length in stain specified as above, color to be determined. After shingles are in position, touch up and apply one coat of linseed oil containing 10 per cent turpentine. (See Note 3.) NOTE 3—This stain is suitable for all kinds of wood used for exterior finish. It must be remembered that a stain implies a transparent coloring, and not a paint coating which is opaque. If it is desired to stain oak or cypress to a dark green or a dark brown color usually used on the timbering and finish of houses designed after the old English period, two coats of stain should be specified to get the necessary depth of color. To attempt this with one coat would result practically in a paint coating, with a covering or hiding of the figure of the wood. If it is desired to stain oak silver grey or other light colors, but one coat is necessary. Shingles, owing to depth of color required, frequently require a second coat of stain after they are set in place. The use of benzole in the stain becomes the active penetrating factor, carrying the coloring matter and oil into the woods. It has about the same evaporating consistency as turpentine.
There being a substantial difference between a paint coating and a stain, therefore the stain specified can be used when necessary for both coats.
Where a perfectly flat surface is desired, the second coat of oil may be an objection; but for durability I would recommend it, also for the reason that the oil gloss shortly flattens down.
There are a number of. very good shingle stains on the market.
Re-Staining of Exterior Woodwork Prepare and re-stain all or such portion of exterior woodwork as may be found necessary, color conforming closely to original stain. Coat all stained woodwork with two coats of linseed oil containing 10 per cent turpentine. Between first and second coats, close up all imperfections with putty colored to match. stain. (See Note 4.) NOTE 4—Re-staining is also a work of diagnosis as to whether the entire work should be gone over with a light coat of stain, or a portion, where the former is badly used up, and whether it should have one or two coats of oil. In this case an examination will quickly speak for itself. A coat of oil over the old stain will make quite a difference in appearance of old color.
Plain Painting for Interior New Woodwork Shellac all knots and sapwood; paint woodwork (locating same) three good coats, color to be selected. After the first or priming coat, close up with lead putty all nailholes and other imperfections. Do all necessary sandpapering between coats. (See Note 13.) NOTE 13—If color required be white or lightly tinted, the wood work should first receive one coat of shellac to prevent discolorations from resin and sapwood. If varnish coat should be required over paint, specify all painted work to receive one coat of a good wearing light color varnish, evenly applied.
Painting and Graining Interior New Woodwork Shellac all knots and sapwood; paint all woodwork (locating same) two coats, no oil to be used in this paint other than that in which the lead is ground. In mixing, use a small quantity of a good mixing varnish, thinning with a turpentine so that the paint will dry with a fiat eggshell gloss, sandpapering each coat perfectly smooth.
Grain in best manner in imitation of hardwood to be selected, the graining color to be used as fiat as possible, consistent with working out. Varnish all grained work one coat of a good wearing body varnish. (See Note 14.) NOTE 14—If a first-class job is required, specify one additional coat of varnish to be full and evenly applied, each coat to be thoroughly dried before the application of another. If a flat finish is required, specify the last coat of varnish to be rubbed evenly to a flat finish with crude oil and pumice stone, all oil and pumice stone to be thoroughly cleaned off at completion.