STAINING AND WARING OF HARDWOODS Medium—Stain all work with an approved stain, color to be selected. Do necessary sandpapering, after which apply one coat of paste filler, colored to conform with stain. Thoroughly clean all surfaces, and apply one medium coat of shellac. Sandpaper lightly, and apply one good coat of an approved finishing wax, permitting it to stand until semi-hard; then to be thoroughly rubbed and polished to a hard surface. (See Note 24.) First-Class--Coat all surfaces (specify location) with one medium coat of clean water (this for oak only). When thoroughly dry, sandpaper to a perfectly smooth finish; after which stain uniformly and in best manner with an approved water stain, color to be selected. Sandpaper lightly, and fill with paste filler, colored to conform with stain. Apply one coat of pure grain alcohol shellac ; sandpaper lightly; after which apply two coats of an approved finishing wax, giving three days between coats. Permit each coat to become semi-hard; then to be thoroughly rubbed and polished to a hard surface. (See Note 25.) NOTE 24—This specification will apply to oak, ash, chestnut, mahogany, cherry, etc. If a finish with open wood pores is desired, eliminate the filling, but add one additional coat of wax.
NOTE 25—This specification applies to oak, ash, chestnut, red and white mahogany, cherry, black walnut, etc., and calls for splendid results. A water stain is mentioned, it being the best and most satisfactory in showing up to advantage the general beauty of the natural shadings and figure of the woods. In staining, it should be emphasized that it does not mean a covering up, but rather the bringing out. In oil stains, the coloring matter is largely composed of pigments of a different character; and, as a rule, they are permanent; but they have a strong tendency to cover up. Spirit stains are hard to apply, and the results unsatisfactory, the coloring matter very often being fugitive. Where it is possible to attain the color requirements by the use of a water stain—and their number is legion—I would recommend it above all other. All water stains raise the grain of the wood more or less; spirit stains, very little; and oil stains, practically none. In connection with the use of water stain, I specify an application of clear water to the oak wood directly (in my practice I find no harm to a good job of cabinet work accruing from its use), so that the surface particles may be raised; and then cut off with sandpaper, so that the application of the water stain has no tendency to farther raise the grain. When the water coating is not used, and the water stain is applied directly, it requires so much sandpapering to recover again a smooth surface that much of the stain and its effects are removed by the sandpapering. The
water coating is very frequently omitted on less important work. When oil and spirit stains are used, the water coat should be omitted; for other than oak wood, it may also be omitted in the use of the water stain.
Very frequently, to get desired results, I apply a light coat of shellac directly on top of stain, after which I proceed with the filling as specified. I also frequently eliminate the shellac coating from on top of filler, applying wax directly on filler. The results desired must regulate the procedure.
When an open-grain or pore effect is desired, omit the filler, but add one additional light coat of shellac. It is very essential in this class of work that the shellac be applied thin and even, showing no laps or brush marks. If a perfectly flat or dead finish is required, omit both filler and shellac coatings, waxing as specified directly on the stain, although I would recommend the one coat of shellac. If the natural colors of the woods are to be retained, omit the staining, and proceed as specified and observing above notes.
For white and bird's-eye maple, satinwood, holly, French, Italian, and Circassian walnut, or any other similar woods, when required to be finished showing their natural colors, eliminate the water coat, stain, and filler; specify two thin coats of pure grain alcohol white shellac evenly applied directly on the wood, without showing laps or brush marks, sandpapering thoroughly each coat; then proceed with waxing as specified. When well done, this will give splendid results. Frequently mahogany and other woods than those specified above are finished after this manner. It is not unusual in procuring results to eliminate the shellac coatings, waxing as specified directly on the raw wood. When stain is necessary, apply wax directly on same.
Often pleasing results can be obtained by using a firstclass dead or flat varnish. For instance, if a perfectly dead finish is required on open-pore surfaces, after applying the stain, sandpaper and apply one thin coat of shellac; sandpaper lightly and apply one coat of a good flat or dead varnish; eliminate the waxing. To get a still flatter effect, eliminate the shellac also. This process is not recommended for durability, simply for its effect, and should be used only on open-pore woods such as oak, where the broken effect of the wood surface destroys the varnish coating effect. In this, window sash and sills should be protected with a coat of good body varnish; when dry, the gloss can be removed by rubbing.