Wood Floor Finishes

"After shellac has become dry, the wax, in paste form, is applied with a rag or a brush, and, after a short time, is brought to a polish by means of a weighted brush or by rubbing with a cloth. Only a very thin coat of wax is necessary, a very little more being occasionally added.

"Quite a large number of specially prepared floor-polishing waxes are on the market, and care should be taken to select a material of this kind that will give a hard polish and will not remain soft and sticky. It was the softness of the old-fashioned beeswax and turpentine that caused the almost endless labor needed to keep floors in perfect condition. Modern wax finishes are made by combining beeswax or paraffine with some of the fossil waxes, or from the latter alone, giving a much harder surface. In general, the wax which has the highest melting point is best for the manufacture of floor waxes, because it is the hardest after application. Carnauba wax has a high melting point (185° F.), and may be used alone as a floor wax by melting it in a suitable kettle and thinning it with spirits of turpentine so that, in cooling, it has the consistency of soft tallow. In this condition it can be applied with a large brush.

"Two coats of wax on a new floor are better than one —the first coat being required to fill up, and the second to give luster—although, if sufficient polish is obtained by the first coat, the second will be found unnecessary.

"The preparation of wax finish is attended with so much risk from fire that it should be undertaken only over a water bath. Even then, it is wiser for the ordinary painter to buy the prepared wax than to undertake to make it.

"Varnish

A large number of floor varnishes are on the market. These varnishes, as a rule, are designed to harden over night. The surface should be prepared in the same way as for wax finish; and after the filler is bone-dry, two or more coats of varnish should be applied. If desired, the varnish may be rubbed to a dead surface with pumice stone and kerosene. Practically every varnish will show heel marks, and will mar white by use. When the surface becomes worn, the old varnish requires to be either scraped off or removed with a varnish remover before a new coat of varnish can be applied; while, with a wax, all that is necessary to restore the surface to a good condition is to apply a little more wax and use the polishing brush.

"When a waxed floor gets dirty and shabby, it can be cleaned down to the shellac with turpentine, and rewaxed at a small cost. It is well to give a special

caution against using a wax finish over a varnish coating, since the wax will soften up the varnish and cause trouble.

"Oil Finish.

A very satisfactory finish for rooms that have hard wear, such as schoolrooms, stores, and rooms in public buildings, is first to fill the floors, and then give them two thin coats of shellac, finally applying a very thin coat of paraffine oil, or of a rubbing and polishing oil, with a brush or a rag, and thoroughly wiping off any surplus remaining on the surface. This oiling should be repeated every few days, according to the amount of wear that the floor gets. This same treatment is specially adapted for kitchen floors, dining rooms, and other floors in private houses that are subject to hard wear. It is also well adapted to the cheaper floors, such as yellow pine or spruce. If mud has been tracked on the floor, it should first be mopped up with water, and this should be allowed to dry before oiling. One advantage of the oiled floor is that it is ready for use as soon as the oiling is finished. This same method of oiling can be used over a varnished floor, and will preserve it from marring.

"Besides paraffine oil, crude petroleum may be used, or any of the so-called polishing oils or furniture polishes. Such oils can be made from machine oil or sweet oil and oil of lemon.

"Painted Floors.

A floor finish not in such general use as it deserves, is the painted floor. Paint has the advantage of hiding inferior floor boards and being cheap. There are a number of special floor paints on the market for use on kitchen floors and other rooms having a good deal of wear.

"A painted floor can be made quite ornamental by the use of a stenciled border, which should be put on before the varnish coats. The most appropriate designs are those which resemble mosaic work in their effects, or interlacing strap work. When the colors are properly chosen, care being taken to avoid glaring contrasts, a painted and stenciled floor is fully as effective as a hardwood floor; and it possesses one distinct advantage in that it can be adapted to any decorative color scheme for the room.

"A floor that is grained, especially one grained in oak, has one of the most durable finishes that can be given, requiring very little attention other than wiping up with damp cloth or mop. If well done, it is fully as effective as a hardwood floor."