Care of the Hair

CARE OF THE HAIR The beauty of the hair is dependent largely upon its health. A clean scalp, nourished by a strong circulation of pure rich blood, is essential. Any disease or subnormal physical condition which pollutes the blood stream or depletes its nutrient properties is reflected in the condition of the hair. People suffering from poor circulation, or anaemia, for instance, generally have weak or lusterless hair. Obviously, hygienic living, outdoor exercise, cor rect diet, mental happiness, everything that contributes to physical well-being will contribute to the health and natural beauty of the hair.

Massaging the Scalp.

At least once a day, devote several minutes to the massage of the scalp. Plant the thumbs back of the ears and spread the fingers over the f ore part of the head. Then rotate the scalp under the finger tips, being sure that it is the scalp that moves and not the fingers. Move the hands about and repeat the rotary movements until every area of the scalp has been stimulated. Then press the palms of the hands firmly against the scalp, and lift and massage the scalp with deep pres sure. A loose elastic scalp ensures freedom of circulation through the scalp tissues and about the hair roots. A tight scalp breeds thin weak hair. Pinching the scalp and pulling the hair (not in jerks, but with steady lifting pulls) are other means of loosening the scalp, increasing its suppleness and stimulating the flow of blood in its tissues.

Tonics, lotions, ointments or pomades are applied to the scalp by means of these massage movements. These preparations are formulated to correct or ameliorate various scalp conditions, ex cessive oiliness and excessive dryness being the commonest. Nor mally, the oil glands, which are attached to the roots of the hairs, secrete a natural lubricant in sufficient quantity to keep the surface of the scalp soft and to keep the hair supple and lustrous. Ill health, or local infection, may disturb the functioning of these oil glands, and excessive oiliness, or a lack of natural oil, may result. For excessive oiliness, astringent lotions and tonics are used, and these should be applied directly to the scalp (with a medicine dropper, or a swab of absorbent cotton) and massaged into the scalp. For dry hair, ointments and pomades are used, which serve to supply the lack of natural lubrication in the scalp.

The hair should be brushed conscientiously for several minutes morning and night, the brush having firm and resilient bristles long enough to penetrate to the scalp. Always brush under the hair and upward, lifting the hair and the scalp to exercise it. Brush the full length of the hair to clean it and to distribute the natural oil down the length of the hair. This helps to keep the hair supple and lustrous. Wipe the brush on a clean towel several times during the brushing, to remove dust and lint. Brushing stimulates circulation in the scalp, and this daily brushing should leave the scalp glowing and pink, but not sore or irritated. Wash combs and brushes frequently.

Shampooing.

The hair should be shampooed as frequently as is necessary to keep the scalp clean and the hair clean and glossy. In smoky or dusty cities, of course, this is oftener than in the country. Oily hair needs washing oftener than dry hair. In any case, however, the hair should be washed at least every fortnight. Absolute cleanliness is the best means of protecting and preserving the health of the hair, of preventing dandruff or other infection, and of correcting any unhealthy scalp conditions.

Arrangement of Hair.—The modern freedom of taste and interest in the development of individual personality have given rise to an endless variety of coiffures for women. The present day woman is encouraged by everyone to wear her hair as it becomes her, or as it expresses her individuality. The hair may be worn short or long, waved or straight, flat or fluffed. More and more, women are learning the importance of line and proportion, and the coiffure is studied as a part of the ensemble effect, its relation to the shape of the head and as a frame for the face.

Hair Cutting.—Hair cutting involves no little skill, and the work of an amateur is apparent at once. Hair cutting is taught by the method of observation and practice in barbers' schools and in schools of beauty culture. The expert learns to lift the hair from the head and graduate the cutting of each lock, so as to avoid stubby ends and procure a smooth rounded appearance that follows the contour of the head. Too heavy hair is thinned at the roots to make it lie flat to the head. The hairdresser who has contributed most to artistic hair cutting for women, Antoine of Paris, was formerly a sculptor, and he has given the modern woman's head that sculptured look which makes her classically beautiful. (D. Co.)