Horticultural Research Stations

HORTICULTURAL RESEARCH STATIONS Great Britain.—Many European and American countries have recently established special research stations for the study of some special horticulture crop. In England the following are important : Cambridge University Horticultural Station.—This was estab lished in 1924 under the direction of Sir R. H. Biffen for special research into vegetable crops.

Chesliunt Experimental and Research Station.—Started in 1915 by growers' associations, the station carries out research and experimental work concerning the production of glass-house crops. Much research work in tomato, cucumber and chrysanthemum culture has been done and papers published.

East Mailing Horticultural Research Station.—Started in this station now has extensive laboratories and over one hundred acres of land. Pomology, pathology and plant pests and hop cul ture have been made special features for study. The station's work on the vegetative propagation and standardisation of root stocks for fruit tree culture is known the world over.

John Innes Horticultural Institution.—This institution primarily concerns itself with pure research, genetics and plant breeding. Fruit, flower and vegetable breeding has been done and pollination questions studied.

Long Ashton Research Station.—Started nearly thirty years ago as the National Fruit and Cider institute, the station has much developed its work on cider-making and taken up research in fruit culture generally. The fruit lands exceed two hundred acres. Cider making, fruit nutrition and pathology are important subjects.

United States.—In the United States, the stations dealing with horticultural research are very numerous. That of New York State at Geneva has a world wide reputation primarily for its pomological work, and for the reports which give a complete classified and described list of fruits. In California, at the uni versity and at the experimental farm at Davis, much good work is done. Cornell university and the State universities of Oregon, Washington, Michigan and Pennsylvania have experimental farms and extension plots.

In Canada experimental work is being undertaken at the Dominion experimental farms at Ottawa where are located the offices of the Dominion horticulturist. Linked up with this work are the branch farms and stations located in every province in Canada. In New Zealand, Australia and South Africa research departments have recently been created.

Horticultural

Organisation.—Organisation in the horticul tural world is of three main types, (a) general, (b) official and (c) trade. The general organisation takes the form of national horti cultural societies with their numerous smaller, local affiliated societies. The Royal Horticultural Society, London, was founded in 1804 with a small following and now consists of over 25,000 fellows and associates. Similar national bodies exist in most European countries. In the United States there are upwards of 1,50o horticultural societies, including many important State organizations, together with numerous county, city and other local societies. In Canada, New Zealand and South Africa move ments are working in the same direction.

At intervals of from about three to five years, international horticultural congresses are held at which papers are read, discus sions held and demonstrations made. In 1920 the first was held in the Netherlands. In 1927, a second was held at Vienna (Aus tria), following which arrangements were made to hold a third in London in 193o. Such congresses are planned and arranged by an international committee consisting of members nominated by the Governments of Austria, Belgium, England, France, Ger many, Hungary, the Netherlands, Poland and Switzerland. Other countries have been invited to appoint representatives. In 1928 Dr. M. J. Sirks of Wageningen (Holland) was acting as secretary to the international committee. At the 1927 conference in Vienna there was some discussion in favour of establishing an interna tional bureau for horticulture, a matter referred for considera tion to the international committee.

(b) England, Canada and New Zealand have horticultural councils which have been officially set up and recognised as the proper bodies to give advice to the Government on horticultural matters. The Horticultural Advisory Council of England, which has been set up by the Ministry of Agriculture, is composed of members representing the Government, the scientific research workers, amateur horticulturalists, commercial growers and dis tributors with the Government horticulture commissioner as chairman. The Council holds not less than two meetings each year.

The Canadian Horticultural Council was formed in 1922. It consists of officers nominated by fruit growers, distributors, jam manufacturers and canners, together with officials from the De partment of Agriculture. The Canadian Horticulture Review is published by the Council.

As to (c) horticultural traders in many countries have formed associations mainly for the purposes of local trade protection. By arrangement between the Horticultural Associations of Bel gium, France, Great Britain, Holland, Luxemburg, an international body known as the Federation Horticole Pro f essionnelle Inter nationale has been established (general secretary, M. Turbat, Orleans, France). This international body holds annual meetings in rotation in the different countries. The F.H.P.I. deals only with horticultural matters as affecting international trade. BIBLIOGRAPHY. W. Robinson, Alpine Flowers; Lord Redesdale (A. B. Freeman Mitford), The Bamboo Garden; J. Weathers, Bulbous Plants (33 col. plates) ; H. H. Cousins, Chemistry of the Garden; W. Watson, Cactus Culture for Amateurs; R. P. Brotherston and M. R. Smith, Book of the Carnation; J. Weathers, Cottage and Allotment Gardening; J. Veitch and Sons, Manual of Coniferae; W. Wells, Culture of the Chrysanthemum; Rev. S. E. Bourne, Book of the Geo. Nicholson, Dictionary of Gardening (5 vols.) ; W. Robinson, The English Flower Garden; Geo. Schneider, Book of Choice Ferns (3 vols.) ; W. Robinson, Flora and Sylva (3 vols.; col. plates by the late H. G. Moon) ; J. Weathers, Flowering Trees and Shrubs (33 col. plates) ; J. Weathers, French Market-Gardening and Intensive Cultivation; T. Smith, French Gardening; Geo. Bunyard and O. Thomas, The Fruit Garden; Josh. Brace, Fruit Trees in Pots; Dr. R. Hogg, The Fruit Manual; M. C. Cooke, Fungoid Pests of Cultivated Plants; Thos. H. Mawson, The Art and Craft of Garden Making; J. Weathers, A Practical Guide to Garden Plants; W. Watson, The Gardeners' Assistant; C. H. Wright and D. Dewar, The Gardeners' Dictionary; J. Weathers, Garden Flowers for Town and Country (33 col. plates) ; Chas. Baltet, The Art of Grafting and Budding; W. Thomson, The Grape Vine; Thos. Baines, Greenhouse and Stove Plants; R. Irwin Linch, The Book of the Iris; G. Jekyll, Lilies for English Gardens; E. A. Ormerod, Manual of Injurious Insects; Dr. A. B. Griffiths, Manures for Fruit and other Trees; F. W. Burbridge and J. G. Baker, The Narcissus (48 col. plates) ; H. A. Burberry, The Orchid Cultivator's Handbook; B. S. Williams, The Orchid Grower's Manual; J. Veitch and Sons, Manual of Orchidaceous Plants; Dr. Paul Sorauer and F. E. Weiss, Physiology of Plants; W. Watson, Orchids, their Culture and Management; G. Massee, Plant Diseases; Rev. A. Foster-Melliar, Book of the Rose; Wm. Paul, The Rose Garden (20 col. plates) ; G. Jekyll and E. Mawley, Roses for English Gardens; J. Weathers, Roses for Garden and Greenhouse (33 col. plates) ; Nat. Rose Society, Handbook on Pruning Roses, Rev. J. H. Pemberton, Roses, their History; Development and Culture; Very Rev. Dean Hole, A Book about Roses; J. Hoffmann, The Amateur Gardener's Rose Book (20 col. plates; translated from the German) ; A. Gaut, Seaside Planting of Trees and Shrubs; E. Beckett, Book of the Strawberry; W. Iggulden, The Tomato; J. Weathers, Trees and Shrubs for English and Irish Gardens (33 col. plates) ; Vilmorin et Cie, The Vegetable Garden (Eng. ed. by W. Robinson) ; A. F. Barron, Vines and Vine Culture; G. Jekyll, Wall and Water Gardens; W. Robinson, The Wild Garden; L. H. Bailey, Practical Garden Book (New York, 1908) ; F. V. Theobald, Insect Pests of Fruit (1909) ; Mrs. E. Cecil, A History of Gardening in England; E. A. Bowles, Crocus and Colchicums; W. R. Dykes, Iris, The Genus (1925) ; The Handbook of the Garden Iris (1925) ; Reginald Farren, The English Rock Garden, 2 vols.; W. J. Bean, Trees and Shrubs Hardy in Great Britain, 2 vols. (1914) ; Rhyder, Cultivated Trees and Shrubs Hardy in North America (1924) ; Suttons' and Sons, The Culture of Vege tables and Flowers from Seeds and Roots (192 1) ; M. M. Vilmorin and Andricua (English Edition, W. Robinson), The Vegetable Garden (1920) ; H. C. Thompson, Vegetable Crops (1923) ; W. F. Bewley, Glasshouse Plants (1923) ; U. P. Hedrick, Cyclopedia of Hardy Fruits (1920) ; E. A. Bunyard, Handbook of Hardy Fruits, Apples and Pears (1920) ; Stone and Bush Fruits (1925) ; P. J. Fryer, Insect Pests and Fungus Diseases of Fruit (1920) ; U. R. Gardner, F. C. Bradford and H. S. Hooker, The Fundamentals of Fruit Production (1922) ; L. Lorette, translated by W. R. Dykes, The Lorette System of Pruning (1925). See also L. H. Bailey, The Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture (1914-25) and Manual of Cultivated Plants (1924). (H. V. T.) Flower Garden and Greenhouse.—Little is to be done in either. In the greenhouse care must be used to protect against frost. Ventilate little, and with care; raise the ventilating sash only high enough to let the heated air from the greenhouse drive back the outer air so as not to chill the plants. To destroy the red spider, syringe the plants copiously at night, and splash the paths with water. The aphis, or "green fly," must also be destroyed ; tobacco may be used. Various new preparations are coming on the market for the destruction of greenhouse pests. Several new effec tive preparations of tobacco have been brought into use. The white-fly is now a common pest in greenhouses, the nymphs being greenish scale-like objects on the under sides of the leaves, and adults very small white flies. The remedy is to spray with kerosene emulsion or whale-oil soap ; or, if on cucumbers or tomatoes, it is best to fumigate with hydrocyanic acid gas, using I oz. of potas sium cyanide to each i,000cu.ft. of space. (This material is very poisonous.) Many greenhouse insects can be kept more or less in check by careful and effective hosing of the plants at proper times. At this season roses, grape-vines and other plants are often affected by mildew ; an effectual remedy is to paint the hot-water pipes with a mixture of sulphur and lime, put on as thick as ordinary whitewash, once each week until it is checked; but care must be taken not to apply it on any surface at a higher temperature than 212° Hyacinths and other bulbs that have been kept in a cellar or other dark, cool place may now be brought into the light of the greenhouse or sitting-room, provided they have filled the pots with roots. If they are not well rooted, leave them until they are, or select such of them as are best, leaving the others. In the out side flower garden little can be done except that shrubs may be pruned, or new work, such as making walks or grading, performed, if weather permits. See that the ornamental plants and trees are not injured by heavy weights of ice or snow.

Fruit Garden.

Pruning, staking up or mulching can be done if the weather is such that the workmen can stand out. On all warm or comfortable days the fruit trees may be pruned.

Grapery.

Graperies used for the forcing of foreign grapes may be started, beginning at a temperature of 5o° at night, with r o° or 15° higher during the day. The borders must be covered sufficiently deep with leaves or manure to prevent the soil from freezing, as it would be destructive to the vines to start the shoots if the roots were frozen; hence, when forcing is begun in January, the covering should be put on in November, before severe frosts begin.

Vegetable Garden.

But little can be done in the northern States except to prepare manure, and get sashes, tools, etc., in working order; but in sections of the country where there is little or no frost the hardier kinds of seeds and plants may be sown and planted, such as asparagus, cabbage, cauliflower, carrot, leek, let tuce, onion, parsnip, peas, spinach, turnip, etc. In any section where these seeds can be sown in open ground, it is an indication that hotbeds may be started for the sowing of such tender vege tables as tomatoes, egg and pepper plants, etc. ; though, unless in the extreme southern States, hotbeds should not be started before the beginning or middle of February. Make orders for the spring seeds.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.

The directions for Jan uary will in the main apply to this month, except that now some of the hardier annuals may be sown in hotbed or greenhouse, and also the propagation of plants by cuttings may be done rather bet ter now than in January, as the greater amount of light gives more vitality to the cutting.

Fruit Garden.

But little can be done in most of the northern States as yet, and in sections where there is no frost in the ground it is likely to be too wet to work; but in many southern States this will be the best month for planting fruit trees and plants of all kinds, particularly strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, pear and apple trees, while grape-vines will do, though they will also do well quite a month later. Continue the pruning. Fruit trees for spring planting should be ordered.

Grapery.

The graperies started last month at 5o° at night may now be increased to 6o°, with a correspondingly higher day temperature. Great care must be taken to syringe the leaves thor oughly at least once a day, and to deluge the paths with water, so as to produce a moist atmosphere. Paint the hot-water pipes with sulphur mixture, as recommended in January.

Vegetable Garden.

Leaves from the woods, kitchen manure or refuse hops from breweries may be got together towards the latter part of this month, and mixed and turned to get "sweetened" preparatory to forming hotbeds. Cabbage, lettuce and cauliflower seeds, if sown early this month in hotbed or greenhouse, will make fine plants if transplanted into hotbed in March. This is prefer able to the use of fall-sown plants. Manure that is to be used for the crop should be broken up as fine as possible, for the more com pletely manure of any kind can be mixed with the soil, the better the crop will be, and, c ` course, if it is dug or ploughed in in large unbroken lumps it cannot be properly commingled.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.

The long days and bright sunshine will now begin to tell on the plants under glass. Examine all plants that are vigorous and healthy ; if the roots have matted the "ball" of earth they must be shifted into a larger-sized pot. Plants from cuttings struck last month may now be shifted, and the propagation of all plants likely to be wanted should be con tinued. Hardier annuals may be sown; it is best done in shallow boxes, say two inches deep.

Lawns

can be raked off and mulched with short manure, or rich garden earth where manure cannot be obtained. Flower-beds on light soils may be dug up so as to forward the work of the corning busy spring season. Lawns may be benefited by a good dressing, in addition to the manure, of some reliable commercial fertilizer. If the lawn is thin in spots, these places may be raked over heavily and new grass seed sown.

Fruit Garden.

In many sections, planting may now be done with safety, provided the soil is light and dry, but not otherwise. Although a tree or plant will receive no injury when its roots are undisturbed in the soil, should a frost come after planting, the same amount of freezing will, and very often does, greatly injure the plant if the roots are exposed.

Grapery.

The grapery started in January will have set its fruit, which should be thinned by one-third. The temperature may now be further advanced to 7o° at night, with 15° higher in the daytime. The same precautions must be used against mildew and insects as given in January. Graperies wanted for succession may be started in February or this month.

Vegetable Garden.

This is a busy month. In localities where the frost is out of the ground, if it is not wet, seeds of the hardier vegetables can be sown. The list of seeds given for the southern States in January may now be used for the northern, while for most of the southern States tender vegetables, such as egg plant, okra, sweet potatoes, melon, squash, potatoes, tomatoes, etc., may be sown and planted. All hotbeds must now be started.

In March flower seeds and vegetable seeds may be sown in boxes or flats in the greenhouse, or in residence windows, or near the kitchen stove. Unless one has space under glass, or in hotbeds, in which the plants may be transplanted before they are set in the open ground, it is well not to start the seeds too early, inasmuch as the plants are likely to become too large or to be pot-bound, or to become drawn.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.

Window and greenhouse plants require more water and ventilation. Due attention must be paid to shifting well-rooted plants into larger pots ; and, if space is desired, many kinds of hardier plants can safely be put out in cold frames. Towards the end of the month it may be necessary slightly to shade the glass of the greenhouse. All herbaceous plants and hardy shrubs may be planted in the garden. The cover ing of leaves or litter should be taken off bulbs and tender plants that were covered up for winter, so that the beds can be lightly forked and raked. Sow tender annual flower seeds in boxes inside.

Fruit Garden.

Strawberries that have been covered up with straw or leaves should be relieved around the plants, leaving the covering between them. Special care must be exercised that the mulch be not left on too long; the plants should not become whitened or drawn. Raspberries, grape-vines, etc., that have been laid down may now be uncovered and tied up to stakes or trellises, and all new plantings of these and other fruits may now be made. Fruit trees may be grafted.

Vegetable Garden.

Asparagus, rhubarb, spinach, etc., should be uncovered, and the beds hoed or dug lightly. Hardier vegetable seeds and plants, such as beets, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, let tuce, onions, parsley, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, turnip, etc., should all be sown or planted by the middle of the month if the soil is dry and warm, and in all cases, where practi cable, before the end of the month. It is essential, in sowing seeds now, that they be well firmed in the soil. Any who expect to get early cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce or radishes, while planting or sowing is delayed until the time of sowing tomato and egg plant in May, are sure to be disappointed of a full crop. Frequent rota tion of crops should be practised in the vegetable garden, in order to head off insects and diseases; and also to make the best use of the land. Every three or f our years the vegetable garden should be laid out in some new place ; but if this cannot be done, the crops should be rotated on different parts of the old garden.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.

Window and greenhouse plants should be in their finest bloom. Firing may be entirely dis pensed with, though care must still be exercised in ventilating. If weather is cold and backward, however (and in the case of very northern regions), care must be taken not to stop firing too soon, or the plants will mildew and become stunted. The air must be kept moist. "Moss culture" may be tried, the common sphagnum or moss of the swamps, mixed with one-twentieth of its bulk of bone-dust, being laid as a mulch on the top of the earth of the flower—pots; its effect is to shield the pots from the sun, and at the same time stimulate the roots to come to the surface. By the end of the month all the plants wanted for the summer decoration of the flower border may be planted out, first loosening a little the ball of earth at the roots. If the weather is dry, water freely after planting. When the greenhouse is not to be used during the summer months, camellias, azaleas and plants of that character should be set out-of-doors under partial shade; but most of the other plants usually grown in the conservatory or window garden in winter may be set in the open border. Flower beds should be kept well hoed and raked, to prevent the growth of weeds next month.

Pelargoniums, pinks, monthly roses and all half-hardy flowering plants should be planted early, but coleus, heliotrope and the more tender plants should be delayed until the end of the month. An nuals that have been sown in the greenhouse or hotbed may be planted out, and seeds of such sorts as mignonette, sweet alyssum, Phlox Drummondii, portulaca, etc., may be sown in the beds or borders. The china aster is now one of the most popular of sum mer and fall plants. The seed may be sown in the north as late as the middle of May, or even the first of June, with good results for fall blooming. If the plants are started early in the greenhouse, they are likely to spend themselves before fall, and theref ore a later sowing should be provided.

Lawns

should be mown, and the edgings trimmed.

Fruit Garden.—The hay or leaf mulching on the strawberry beds should be removed and the ground deeply hoed (if not re moved in April in the more forward places) , after which it may be placed on again to keep the fruit clean and the ground from drying. Where it has not been convenient bef ore, most of the smaller fruits may yet be planted during the first part of the month. Tobacco dust will dislodge most of the numerous kinds of slugs, caterpillars or worms that make their appearance on the young shoots of vines or trees. Fruit trees may be planted this month, if not planted in March or April. If they have been kept fresh and dormant, they should still be in good condition. The broken roots should be cut back to fresh wood, and the tops headed back in proportion.

Vegetable Garden.—Attention should be given to new sow ings and plantings for succession. Crops sown last month will have to be thinned out if large enough. Hoe deeply all transplanted crops, such as cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, etc. Tender vege tables, such as tomatoes, egg and pepper plants, sweet potatoes, etc., can be planted out. Seeds of Lima beans, sweet corn, melon, okra, cucumbers, etc., should be sown; and sow for succession peas, spinach, lettuce, beans, radishes, etc., every ten days.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.—Tropical plants can now be used to fill up the greenhouse during the summer months. The house should be well shaded ; specimens of fancy caladiums, dracaenas, coleus, crotons, palms and ferns and other plants grown for the beauty of their foliage will make a very attractive show. If these cannot be had, common geraniums may be used. The "moss culture" will be found particularly valuable for these plants. Hyacinths, tulips and other spring bulbs may be dug up, dried and placed away for next fall's planting, and their places filled with bedding plants, such as coleus, achyranthes, pelargo niums, and the various white and coloured leaf plants. It will be necessary to mow the lawn once a week, and sometimes oftener.

Fruit Garden.—The small fruits should be mulched about the roots, if this has not yet been done. If the fruit garden is large enough to admit of horse culture, it is best to keep the bush-fruits well cultivated during the season ; this tillage conserves the mois ture and helps to make a full and plump crop of berries. In small areas the mulching system is sometimes preferable.

Vegetable Garden.—Beets, beans, carrots, corn, cucumbers, lettuce, peas and radishes may be sown for succession. This is usually a busy month, as many crops have to be gathered, and, if hoeing is not promptly seen to, weeds are certain to give great trouble. Tomatoes should be tied up to trellises or stakes if fine flavoured and handsome fruit is desired, for if left to ripen on the ground they are apt to have a gross earthy flavour.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.—Watering, ventilating and fumigating (or the use of tobacco in other forms for destruction of aphides) must be attended to. The atmosphere of the green house must be kept moist. Watch the plants that have been plunged out-of-doors, and see if any require repotting. All plants that require staking, such as dahlias, roses, gladioli and many her baceous plants, should now be looked to. Carnations and other plants that are throwing up flower stems, if wanted to flower in winter, should be cut back, that is, the flower stems should be cut off to perhaps five inches from the ground.

Fruit Garden.

If grape-vines show any signs of mildew, dust them over with dry sulphur, selecting a still, warm day. The fruit having now been gathered from strawberry plants, if new beds are to be formed, the system of layering the plants in small pots is the best. In general, field strawberries are not grown from potted layers, but from good strong layers that strike naturally in the field. In the north, spring planting of strawberries is gen erally advised for market conditions; although planting in early fall or late summer is successful when the ground is well pre pared and when it does not suffer from drought. Where apples, pears, peaches, grapes, etc., have set fruit thickly, thin out at least one-half to two-thirds of the young fruit.

Vegetable Garden.—The first ten days of this month will yet be time enough to sow sweet corn, beets, lettuce, beans, cucumbers and rutabaga turnips. Such vegetables as cabbage, cauliflower, celery, etc., wanted for fall or winter use, are best planted this month, though in some sections they will do later. Keep sweet potatoes hoed to prevent the vines rooting at the joints.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.—But little deviation is required in these departments from the instructions for July. See that sufficient water is applied; the walks may be wet in the houses.

Fruit Garden.—Strawberries that have fruited will now be making "runners," or young plants. These should be kept cut off close to the old plant, so that the full force of the root is expended in making the "crowns" or fruit buds for next season's crop. If plants are needed for new beds, only the required num ber should be allowed to grow, and these may be layered in pots as recommended in July. The old stems of raspberries and black berries that have borne fruit should be cut away, and the young shoots thinned to three or four canes to each hill or plant. If tied to stakes and topped when 4 or 5 ft. high, they will form three or four branches on a cane, and will make stronger fruiting plants for next year.

Vegetable Garden.—Hoe deeply such crops as cabbage, cauli flower and celery. The earthing up of celery this month is not to be recommended, unless a little very early supply is wanted. On ions in many sections can be harvested. The proper condition is when the tops are turning yellow and falling down. They are dried best by placing them in a dry shed in thin layers. Sow spin ach for fall use, but not yet for the winter crop. Red top, white globe, and yellow Aberdeen turnips should now be sown ; ruta baga turnips sown last month will need thinning, and in extreme southern States they may yet be sown.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.—The flower-beds in the lawn should be at their best. If planted in "ribbon lines" or "massing," strict attention must be given to pinching off the tops, so that the lines or masses will present an even surface. Tender plants will require to be put in the greenhouse or housed in some way towards the end of this month; but care should be taken to keep them as cool as possible during the day. Cuttings of bedding plants may now be made freely if wanted for next sea son, as young cuttings rooted in the fall make better plants for next spring's use than old plants, in the case of such soft-wooded plants as pelargoniums, fuchsias, verbenas, heliotropes, etc. ; with roses and plants of a woody nature, however, the old plants usually do best. Dutch bulbs, such as hyacinths, tulips, crocus, etc., and most of the varieties of lilies, may be planted. Violets wanted for winter flowering will now be growing freely, and the runners should be trimmed off. Sow seeds of sweet alyssum, candytuft. daisies, mignonette, pansies, etc. Visit the roadsides and woods for interesting plants to put in the hardy borders.

Fruit Garden.—Strawberry plants that have been layered in pots may yet be planted, or in southern districts the ordinary ground layers may be planted. The sooner in the month both are planted the better crop they will give next season ; and, as these plants soon make runners, it will be necessary to trim them off. Attend to raspberries and blackberries as advised for last month, if they have not already been attended to. All fruit trees should be gone over for borers before cold weather sets in ; they also should have been gone over for the same purpose in May and June.

Vegetable Garden.

If cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce are wanted to plant in cold frames, the seed should be sown from about the loth to the loth of this month; but judgment should be exercised, for, if sown too early, cabbage and cauliflower are apt to run to seed. The best date for latitude of New York is Sept. 15. The main crop of spinach or sprouts that is wanted for winter or spring use should be sown about the same date. The earth should be drawn up to celery with a hoe preparatory to earthing up with a spade. Onions not harvested and dried last month must now be attended to. Turnips of the early or flat sorts may yet be sown the first week of this month in the northern States, and in the south from two to four weeks later.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.

In northern sections of the United States, tender plants that are still outside should be got under cover as early as possible. Delay using fire heat as long as possible, unless the nights become so cold as to chill the plants inside the house. Roses, carnations, camellias, azaleas, pelargoniums and the hardier plants will do better in a cold frame or pit until about the middle of November than they would in an ordinary greenhouse. Look out for insects. Fall bulbs of all kinds may be planted. Take up summer-flowering bulbs and tubers, such as dahlias, tuberoses, gladioli, cannas, caladiums, tigridias, and dry them off thoroughly, stowing them away after wards in some place free from frost and moisture during the winter. Before winter sets in see that the lawn is freely top dressed. Be careful not to mow the grass too short in the fall. Fruit Garden.—Strawberries grown from pot-grown layers may yet be planted in southern States ; keep the runners trimmed off. Fruit trees and shrubs may be set out; but, if planting is de ferred to the last of the month, the ground around the roots should be mulched to the thickness of 3 or 4in. with straw, leaves or rough manure, as a protection against frost. The fruit garden must be protected from the ravages of mice in winter. Mice will nest about the plants if there is straw or other litter around them. Before winter, all tall grass and loose litter should be taken away; if this is not done, then the first snow should be tramped heavily around the plants, in order to destroy any nesting-places.

Vegetable Garden.

Celery will now be in full growth, and will require close attention to earthing up, and during the last part of the month the first lot may be stored away in trenches for winter. All vegetable roots not designed to be left in the ground during the winter should be dug up, such as beets, carrots, pars nips, sweet potatoes, etc. The cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce plants grown from seed sown last month should be pricked out in cold frames. If lettuce is wanted for winter use, it may now be planted in the greenhouse or cold frame, and will be ready for use about Christmas. If asparagus or rhubarb is wanted for winter use, it should be taken up and stowed away in pit, frame, shed or cellar for a month or two. It may then be taken into the greenhouse and packed closely together under the stage, and will be fit for use from January to March, according to the temperature of the house. Vegetable gardens often become infested with diseases carried over from year to year in the old plants and litter; this is especially true of watermelons and of some diseases of toma toes. It is well, therefore, to burn the tops of the plants in the autumn, rather than to plough them under or to throw them on the compost heap.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.

All plants intended to be grown inside should now be indoors. Keep a sharp look-out for cold snaps, as they come very unexpectedly in November, and many plants are lost thereby. In cases where it is not con venient to use fire heat, 5° to i o° of cold can be resisted by covering the plants over with paper, and by using this before frost has struck the plants valuable collections may be saved. When fire heat is freely used, be careful to keep up the proper amount of moisture by sprinkling the paths with water. Little can be done in the flower garden, except to clean off all dead stalks, and straw up tender roses, vines, etc., and, wherever there is time, to dig up and rake the borders, as it will greatly facilitate spring work. Cover up all beds in which there are hyacinths, tulips and other bulbs with a litter of leaves or straw to the depth of 2 or 3 inches. A good sprinkling of thoroughly decayed manure spread over the lawn may help towards a finer growth next spring.

Fruit Garden.

Strawberry beds should be covered (in cold sections) with hay, straw or leaf mulching, to a depth not exceed ing 2 inches. Fruit trees and grape-vines generally should be pruned; and, if the wood of the vine is wanted for cuttings, or scions of fruit trees for grafts, they should be tied in small bundles and buried in the ground until spring. They may be taken in December or January if preferred.

Vegetable Garden.

Celery that is to be stored for winter use should be put away bef ore the end of the month in all sections north of Virginia; south of that it may be left in most places where grown throughout the winter if well covered up. The stalks of the asparagus bed should be cut off, and burned if there are berries on them, as the seeds scattered in the soil some times produce troublesome weeds. Mulch the beds with 2 or Sin. of rough manure. All vegetable roots that are yet in the ground, and not designed to be left there over winter, must be dug up before the middle of the month or they may be frozen in. Cover up onions, spinach, sprouts, cabbage or lettuce plants with a covering of 2 or Sin. of leaves, hay or straw, to protect them during the winter. Cabbages that have headed may usually be preserved against injury by frost until the middle of next month by simply pulling them up and packing them closely in a dry spot in the open field with the heads down and roots up. On approach of cold weather in December they should be covered up with leaves as high as the tops of the roots, or, if the soil is light, it may be thrown over them, if leaves are not convenient. Cabbages will keep this way until March if the covering has not been put on too early. Plough all empty ground if practicable, and, whenever time will permit, do trenching and subsoiling. Cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce plants that are in frames should be regularly ventilated by lifting the sash on warm days, and on the approach of very cold weather they should be covered with straw mats or shutters. In the colder latitudes, and even in the middle States, it is absolutely necessary to protect cauliflower in this way, as it is much more tender than cabbage and lettuce plants.

Flower Garden and Greenhouse.

Close attention must be paid to protecting all tender plants, for it is not uncommon to have the care of a whole year spoiled by one night's neglect. Vigilance and extra hot fires will have to be kept up when the thermometer falls to 34° or 35° in the parlour or conservatory. It is well to set the plants under the benches or on the walks of the greenhouses ; if they are in the parlour move them away from the cold point and protect them with paper; this will usually save them even if the thermometer falls to 24 or 26 degrees. Another plan in the greenhouse is to dash water on the pipes or flues; this causes steam to rise to the glass and freeze there, stopping up all the crevices. With plants outside that require it, strawing up or mulching must now be finished.

Fruit Garden.

In sections where it is an advantage to pro tect grape-vines, raspberries, etc., from severe frost, these should be laid down as close to the ground as possible, and covered with leaves, straw or hay, or with a few inches of soil. Grapes may be pruned. Fruit trees may be pruned from now till March in the north.

Vegetable Garden.

Celery in trenches should receive the final covering for the winter, which is best done by leaves or light stable litter; in the latitude of New York it should not be less than i 2in. thick. Potatoes, beets, turnips or other roots in pits, the spinach crop in the ground, or any other article in need of protection, should be attended to before the end of the month; manure and compost heaps should be forwarded as rapidly as possible, and turned and mixed so as to be in proper condition for spring. Remove the snow that accumulates on cold frames or other glass structures, particularly if the soil which the glass covers was not frozen before the snow fell; it may remain on the sashes longer if the plants are frozen in, since they are dor mant, and would not be injured if deprived of light for eight or ten days. If roots have been placed in cellars, attention must be given to ventilation, which can be done by making a wooden box, say 6 by 8in., to run from the ceiling of the cellar to the eaves of the building above. (L. H. BA. P. H.)