VICUNA, a term applied both to a distinctive variety of wool, and also to a special kind of "finish" given to certain va rieties of woollen textures. Vicuna wool is the fleece obtained from the vicuna (q.v.), a wild relative of the llama (q.v.) in habiting the mountainous districts of Chili and Peru. This type of wool is distinguished for its remarkably long, fine, soft and lustrous character for which it is greatly prized. These properties adapt it eminently for the production of woollen and worsted textures that require a soft and full "handle" or "feel," and also for the development of a "nap." Vicuna fabrics comprise several varieties of woollen and worsted textures, which are of the character of serge (q.v.), ex cepting that they are more supple, softer and fuller, and of a more subdued lustre than true serge textures. This is partly owing to the different character of wool employed in their manufacture, as well as to the method of finishing. Like serges, also, vicuna fabrics are usually based on the simple twill weave structures and employed as dress and costume materials and suitings.
Vicuna fabrics comprise two distinct types of textures, viz.: (I) simple structures for the lighter and medium textures suit. able for women's wear, and light suitings and coatings for men's summer wear; and (2), double-cloth structures for the heavier and stronger textures suitable for men's overcoatings. This class
is produced either from two-fold worsted both for warp and weft, or from two-fold worsted warp, and single worsted or woollen weft, for softer textures. One example of the latter class is woven with the 5-end venetian (double-stitch 5-end warp satin) weave, and a 10-end sateen (weft-face) back; while a second example is woven with the four-end twill face weave, and with the plain weave on the back, which produces a relatively stronger and better wearing cloth.
To obtain the true "vicuna" handle, the routine of the finishing process is varied to suit the character of yarn employed, the weave structure and the "setting" of the fabric, i.e., the number of warp and weft threads per inch in the fabric. The procedure then consists of knotting and mending; crabbing or blowing with steam, to set the fabric; scouring; milling; dyeing; washing-off ; teetering; raising (wet) ; cutting; brushing; steaming or dewing; shrinking and pressing (rotary machine). An alternative method is to raise the cloth previous to milling. (H. N.)