WESTMORLAND, a north-western county of England. It reaches the sea in the Kent estuary in Morecambe Bay. Area (exclusive of water) 775.7 sq.m. Prof. Marr recognizes three major and three minor physical divisions. The largest, the slate tract, is west of a line from the foot of Ullswater to Ravenstone dale. In this we find Ordovician (Borrowdale volcanic series) and Silurian rocks (see LAKE DISTRICT) which form a region of moun tains and fells with deep-cut valleys. The chief peaks are Hel vellyn (3,118 ft.), Bow Fell (2,96o), Fairfield (2,863), Cringle Crags (2,816), Red Screes (2,541), High Street (2,663), High Raise (2,634) and Langdale Pikes (2,401) with the lakes of Ullswater, Haweswater, Grasmere, Rydalwater, Elterwater and Windermere (in part in the county). The second division embraces the New Red Sandstone tract of the upper Eden valley with its base through Penrith reaching to near Kirkby Stephen. Most of the area lies between the 500 and 1,0m ft. contour. To the east is the third major division, that part of the Pennine hills within the county boundary. It is a moorland tract with Milburn Forest (2,78o ft.), Duften Fell (2,403), Hilton Fell (2,446) and other heights. The high ground (average 1,000 ft.) in the triangle be tween Kendal and the southern boundary of the county includes Kendal Fell, Farleton Knott and Whitbarrow. The chief rivers are the upper waters of the Eden (with the Lowther and the Eamont), the Tees, the Lune and the Kent.
History and Early Settlement.-Implements of ground or polished stone have been found in Westmorland, some of rather special types such as certain supposed "sinkers," objects shaped like two acorns base to base with a transverse groove between them : they seem not to have been hammers. A group of monu ments extends from Little Salkeld near Penrith in Cumberland to near Shap in Westmorland; it includes a circle, near Penrith, called Long Meg and her daughters, 68 stones with "Long Meg" extra, standing apart, another called Mayborough, another (an earthwork) called King Arthur's Round Table, all in Cumberland. At Gunnerheld (near Shap) is a double circle. A barrow at Crosby Garrett is of special importance. Canon Grenwell considered that the Romans probably found a considerable indigenous population, necessitating defence on their part, and their roads and camps are a feature especially east of the Eden.
The earliest English settlements were by Anglian tribes, in the 6th century in the neighbourhood of Kendal. The northern dis trict remained unconquered, until the close of the 7th century when Ecgfrith drove out the Britons and established the Nor thumbrian supremacy over the district. The Danes arrived in the 9th century and the Norsemen in the loth. Westmorland is men tioned in the Saxon Chronicle in 966. At the time of the Domes day Survey the barony of Kendal belonged to the crown. The annexation of the northern portion of Westmorland to the crown was accomplished by William Rufus, in 1092. Westmorland was established as an administrative county by Henry I. in up, by the separation of the northern part from the land of Carlisle.
The division of Westmorland into wards originated with the system of defence against the Scots, each barony being divided into two wards, and each ward placed under a high constable. From early times the political history of Westmorland is a record of continuous inroads and devastations from the Scots. Appleby was frequently raided and in 1388 it was sacked and al most completely ruined. In the Wars of the Roses, Westmorland favoured the Lancastrians and in the Civil War of the 17th cen tury the chief families were Royalists. Appleby Castle surren dered in 1648, but the Royalist feeling was shown in the joy which greeted the news of the Restoration. The Jacobite rising of '745 found many adherents in Westmorland, and a skirmish took place on Clifton Moor.
There are very few notable ecclesiastical buildings, though the ruins of Shap Abbey, near the market town of that name should be remarked. The Perpendicular western tower and other frag ments remain. Late Norman work is preserved in some of the churches, as at Kirkby Lonsdale, and in a few castles. Among the castles are Appleby, Brough, Brougham and Kendal. In the Ken dal district are the houses, Levens Hall dating from the 16th cen tury, and Sizergh Hall embodying part of an ancient castle. The formal gardens at Levens Hall are remarkable. Lowther Castle, near Penrith, is a fine modern mansion.