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Wigtownshire

wigtown, south, galloway, bay and shire

WIGTOWNSHIRE (sometimes called WEST GALLOWAY), south-western county, Scotland, bounded north by Ayrshire, east by Kirkcudbrightshire and Wigtown bay, south by the Irish sea and west and north by the North channel. Including the island of St. Helena, at the head of Luce bay, it covers 311,984 acres (excluding water). On the eastern boundary the estuary of the Cree expands into Wigtown bay, between which and Luce bay extends the promontory of the Machers, terminating in Burrow head. By the indentation of Luce bay on the south and Loch Ryan on the north the hammerheaded peninsula of the Rinns is formed, of which the Mull of Galloway, the most southerly point of Scot land, is the southern, and Milleur point the northern extremity. The coast has many inlets, but most are exposed and beset with rocks. Loch Ryan is a natural harbour of which Stranraer is the port.

A line north-east from the coast about 3 m. south of Port patrick divides the county so that practically all the rocks on the northern side are of Ordovician age, while those on the south are Silurian. This line coincides with the general direction of the strike of the beds throughout the county. Glacial moraines and drumlins are widespread and are well seen between Glenluce and Newton Stewart and south of Wigtown. On the coasts of Luce bay and Loch Ryan raised beaches are found at levels of 25 ft. and so ft. above the sea. Towards the Ayrshire border, hills reach I,000 ft. in height. The chief rivers are the Cred, forming the boundary with Kirkcudbrightshire, and the Bladenoch, issuing from Loch Maberry and falling into Wigtown Bay at Wigtown after a course of 22 m. Most of the numerous lochs are small.

History and Antiquities.

The history of Wigtownshire is hardly distinguishable from that of Galloway (q.v.). Evidences of the Pictish occupation are prevalent in the form of hill forts, cairns, standing stones, hut circles and crannogs or lake dwellings. There are so few Roman remains that it has been concluded they effected no permanent settlement in West Galloway. Ninian, the first Christian missionary to Scotland, landed at Isle of Whithorn in 396 to convert the natives. His efforts were temporarily suc cessful. A monastery was built at Whithorn, and, though the bishopric founded in the 8th century was shortly afterwards removed, it was established again in the i2th, when the priory erected by Fergus, "king" of Galloway, became the cathedral church of the see of Galloway.

Malcolm MacHeth, who had married a sister of Somerled, lord of the Isles, headed about I15o a Celtic revolt against the intrusion of Anglo-Norman lords, but was routed at Causewayend near the estuary of the Cree. In the disorder of the realm dur ing David II.'s reign east Galloway had been surrendered to Edward III. (1333), but Wigtownshire, which had been consti tuted a shire in the previous century and afterwards called the Shire to distinguish it from the Stewartry of Kirkcudbright, re mained Scottish territory. In 1372 the then earl of Wigtown

sold his title and estates to the 3rd earl of Douglas, and under that family in 1426, the region came under the general law. Soon after the fall of the Douglases the Kennedy family, long established in the Ayrshire district of Carrick, obtained a preponderating influence in Wigtownshire, and in 1509 David Kennedy was created earl of Cassillis. Gilbert, the 4th earl held the shire for Mary, queen of Scots, when she broke with the Lords of the Congregation, but could do little for her cause. He profited by the Reformation himself, however, to acquire by fraud and murder the estate of Glenluce abbey (about 157o).

Among ancient castles are the cliff towers, possibly of Norse origin, of Carghidown and Castle Feather near Burrow Head; the ruins of Baldoon, south of Wigtown, associated with events which suggested to Sir Walter Scott the romance of The Bride of Lammermoor; Corsewall near the northern extremity of the Rinns; the Norse stronghold of Cruggleton, south of Garlies town; Dunskey, south of Portpatrick, built in the 16th century, occupying the site of an older fortress; the fragments of Long castle at Dowalton loch, the ancient seat of the MacDonells; Myrton, the seat of the MacCullochs, in Mochrum parish; and the ruined tower of Sorbie, the ancient keep of the Hannays.

Agriculture and Industries.

Much of the shire consists of stony moors, rendering the work of reclamation difficult. The gravelly soil along the coast requires heavy manuring, and in the higher arable quarters a rocky soil prevails, better adapted for grass and green crops than for grain. Much of the surface is black top reclaimed from the moors, and in some districts loam and clay are found. Half of the shire is, however, under cultiva tion, and the standard of farming is as high as that of any county in Scotland. Ayrshire cattle are the favourite breed for dairy ing, with black polled Galloways in the eastern districts. The sheep are principally black-faced on the hill farms, and in other parts Leicester and other long-woolled breeds, wool being an important product. Great numbers of pigs are kept. The shire has acquired some reputation for its horses, chiefly Clydesdale. There is regular communication by mail steamer between Stranraer and Larne in Co. Antrim, Ireland.

Population and Administration.

The 1931 population was 29,299; 98 persons spoke Gaelic and English, one Gaelic only. The principal towns are Stranraer (pop. 6,490) ; Newton Stewart (1,914), which, however, extends into Kirkcudbrightshire; Wig town (1,261) ; and Whithorn (951). The county returns one member to parliament. Wigtown, the county town, Stranraer and Whithorn are royal burghs. The shire forms a sheriffdom with Dumfries, and a sheriff-substitute sits at Wigtown and Stranraer.