FUSTIAN, a technical term descriptive of an important class of cotton fabrics comprising sev eral distinctive types and vari eties of which "moleskin," cordu roy, and velveteen are the three principal types. Each of these types also comprises various mod ifications in respect of the minor details of their construction, such as "beaverteen," "cantoon" or "diagonal," "imperial sateen" or "swansdown," "lambskin" and other varieties. Fustian fabrics, with the exception of "swans down" and velveteen, are firm and compact textures of great strength and durability, adapted for hard wear and chiefly employed in the production of clothing for both sexes. These characteristics are obtained by employing warp threads usually of folded yarn and of great strength, in combina tion with a relatively high rate of picks per inch, of soft-spun single weft.
The simplest varieties of fustian fabrics are those known as "imperials," comprising "swansdown," "lambskin" and reversible "sateen," of which the designs showing the weave structures are given in figs. r, 2 and 3 respectively.
Swansdown.—Swansdown is based on the five-end weft face satin weave, but with two contiguous warp threads raised together, instead of singly, as indicated in the design, fig. 1. After weav ing, these fabrics are submitted to an operation of "perching" or "raising," in order to develop on the face side of the fabric a soft furry "nap" or "down" which characterizes a swansdown fabric and gives it additional warming properties suitable for underclothing and night attire.
One quality of "swansdown" con tains 6o warp threads per inch, of 18's T., and 120 picks per inch, of 20's soft weft of good quality to develop a good "nap." Imperial Sateen.—Imperial sateen is virtually "swansdown" of stronger and heavier texture and based on the eight-end weft face satin weave structure, but with two contiguous warp threads raised together, as indicated in the design, fig. 2. This weave pro duces relatively longer weft floats and permits of a greater density of picks being inserted in the fabric. When "perched" on the face side, "imperial sateen" is sold as "lambskin," from the long, soft and woolly "nap." It is also sometimes dyed and finished to imi tate a light texture of "moleskin." A good quality of "lambskin" contains 46 warp ends of 2/20's, and 450 picks of 20's weft, per inch; whilst a medium quality of dyed "imperial sateen" con tains 68 warp ends of 16's T. and 1 so picks of 16's weft, per inch.
Reversible imperial is a variation of "imperial sateen" simply by floating the weft equally on both sides of the fabric, as indi cated in the design, fig. 3, showing the weave structure of this variety of which a good quality contains 62 warp ends of 14's T. and 33o picks of 30's weft, per inch.
Cantoon.—Cantoon or diagonal is a strong and compact tex ture produced with fine diagonal cords or ribs of twill running at a low angle of about 18°, and based on the twill weave structure indicated in fig. 4. It is usually dyed a fawn or a drab hue, "perched" on the back, and largely employed for men's and ladies' riding and sporting habits. A good quality of "cantoon" contains 54 warp ends of 2/20's, and 400 picks of 20's weft, per inch.
Moleskin.—Moleskin is a thicker, stronger, and heavier tex ture than other varieties of fustian and is more suitable for men's clothing requiring very hard wear and durable qualities, and especially for rough occupations as iron and brass-moulding. navvying, and similar work. Moleskin is a semi-compound texture consisting of one series of warp threads and two series of weft, viz., "face" picks and "back" picks (of the same kind of weft) inserted in the ratio of two "face" picks to one "back" pick, uniformly, as indicated in fig. 5, showing a design for a "moleskin" fabric which is virtually a stronger and heavier texture of uncut velveteen, as described in a separate article (q.v.). A "moleskin" of good quality contains 38 warp ends of 3/34's and 400 picks of 14's weft, per inch.
Beaverteen is virtually a light texture of "moleskin" which, after weaving, is dyed, printed, and "perched" on the back to produce a short "nap." Two designs for "beaverteen" are given in figs. 6 and 7. The design fig. 6 will produce what is practically a "tabby" back "beaverteen," with three "face" picks to one "back" pick; while the design fig. 7, will produce a fabric with two "face" picks to one "back" pick, and a three-end weft twill back which is better for "perching." A good quality of "beaverteen" contains 32 warp ends of 2/18's, and 28o picks of 18's weft, per inch.
Corduroy fabrics consist of a foundation texture based on the three-end or four-end twill or other simple weave structure that will ensure sufficient stability in the fabric. The cords are usually of uniform width, and sometimes of different width, in the same fabric. When the cords are of uniform width, they are formed at regular intervals ranging from three to 16 or 20 warp threads, uniformly, chiefly according to the width of cords required and the style of clothing for which the fabric is intended, as, for example, suits for artisans, or for sport ing and riding suits for both men and women.
Corduroy fabrics are produced in a variety of different textures, styles and qualities, according to the special purpose for which they are intended. The simplest variety, and one of the neatest styles employed for boys' and men's clothing is commonly termed "thickset" corduroy of which an example is illustrated in fig. 8. This fabric is constructed with two "pile" picks to one "back" pick, uniformly, in accordance with the design shown in fig. 9, which is for a corduroy fabric formed with a three-end twill back, though it may be formed with a "tabby" back. The cords in this example recur on the smallest possible number of warp threads, viz., three, with two cords constituting one repeat of the design which, therefore, repeats on six warp threads, as indi cated. A corduroy fabric constructed with much wider and bolder cords is illustrated in fig. io, of which the design is given in fig. II. This example is based on the four-end 2 x 2 twill founda tion texture, with two "pile" picks to one "back" pick, and with the cords recurring at regular intervals of eight warp threads, uniformly, as indicated in the design.
Corduroy fabrics comprise many other modifications of structure both in respect of their foundation textures and also in the particular manner of intersecting the "pile" picks with the "stitching" or "bind ing" warp threads that form the cuttings or furrows between the cords: but the two examples here given will serve to indicate the general principle of their construction. See also the article VELVETEEN.
See H. Nisbet, Grammar of Textile Design (1927). (H. N.)