The mainsheet is fitted at one end with a large eye, the splice ends of which are formed into a good-sized knot, sufficient to prevent it un reeving ; the sheet is used single when running or reaching, and, when close hauled, the eye is slipped over a hook on deck aft of the well, and the sheet becomes doubled thereby.
The battens, which cross the sail at the reef-bands, are usually made of yellow pine or bamboo, and should be stoutest at about one third from the fore end, and be parreled to the mast by a snotter, with toggle and eye, or by a lacing; and, thus fitted, the sail stands without any shifting, as well on one tack as on the other.
The sail, as shown, is rigged on the port side of the mast; the jackstay is not marked, as it might be confusing to the inexperienced reader; it, however, comes down on the port side of the sail.
It will be found a great convenience to fit the main mast so as to be lowered as already described ; in such case the mast will be pivoted to a tabernacle an inch or two above the deck, and a small hatchway will be necessary on the fore side of the mast in the deck to allow the heel to come up ; the mast will be held upright either by a forestay or a heel tackle. There are many ways of fitting the heel and lowering gear; the chief point, however, is to remember that with a long heavy mast there is considerable leverage about its heel, and therefore the deck and mast case fittings must be strong.
The mainmast should be a " grown " fir spar, straight and tapering, if possible, with little more than the bark taken off. Length, from deck to masthead shoulder, 12ft., cut square at and below deck, 2}in. diameter at deck, and tapering below to 1 tin. rounding, commencing 3in. above
deck, taper to 1 fin. at head. The mast should be cut rather longer, say 13ft. or 14ft. deck to hounds at first, it can then, after trial, be reduced to the length suitable to the sail. The boom should be cut 10ft. long, and reduced at the after end when the sail has settled into shape. Yellow pine, 1 fin. diameter in centre, taper to lin. at fore end, and sin. at after end. The yard should be of yellow pine, cut 9ft. 6in. long, same size at boom, or a little less, Or it may be a slight spar, with a fish batten of elm seized on its upper side.
A double 1 fin. or 2in. block and a single block should be stropped with strop and thimble, and lashed firmly to the mast just above the deck ; the double block at the after side and the single one on the starboard side of the mast, and on the port side a stout brass ring, lashed on by the same lashing, will serve as a leader for the topping lift. At the masthead there should be a good-sized sheave hole and sheave for main halyards, three single blocks, 1 tin., stropped with strop and thimble, lashed on above the mast shoulder, so that one hangs each side, and one on the fore side—these take the peak and spinnaker halyards and the topping lift; a truck above and a neat brass flag rod gives a finished look to the masthead.
All spars, blocks, and lashings should be varnished, the mast being afterwards glass papered and oiled.
Blocks should be of boxwood, and have metal sheaves.
The mizen sheet may lead to a boomkin, but it will be better led to the rudder. The standing part fast to back edge of rudder just above water, then led through a block on mizen boom and in to hand at the " well."