Boxed Cornice. A better finished form of cornice is shown in Fig. 2S3. Here an extra piece P is placed just above the gutter so as to cover the spaces between the rafters, and the entire under side of the rafters outside of the wall of the building is covered with hoarding as at Q, so that the rafters will not be seen at all. The piece L must still he used, however, to stop the wall covering. This figure also shows the roof shing ling at R. This should be laid about 4 to inches to the weather. It is laid closer than the wall shingling because it is nearer flat and the water will stand on it longer than it will stay on the wall. The water thus has a greater chance to leak through and the shingling must be laid closer and thicker on the roof. It is wise to insert blocks on top of the plate as shown at S, and to continue the side sheathing up to the roof sheathing so as to make everything tight. All of the boarding used for the boxing in of the rafters at Q, together with the pieces L and J, may be of :4--inch stuff. The piece P should usually be of II-inch stuff so as to allow of rabbeting it to receive the gutter. The piece K may be molded as desired by the designer of the building. J is called the fascia and Q is called the planceer.
The principal objection to the boxed cornice is that, if snow melts in the gutter and freezes afterward so as to fill up the gutter during the winter, it is very likely to work its way up under the shingles when it finally melts in the spring, and in this way find its Ivay into the attic. In the case of the open cornice there is little chance of this happening, as the water can get away at the back of the gutter between the rafters.
Sometimes it is desired to place the planceer in such a position that it will be horizontal instead of following up along the under side of the rafters. This is accom plished by fastening a piece of furring to the end of the rafter and to the wail in such a way that the bottom of it will be hori zontal, and spacing these pieces 12 or 16 inches apart all around the eaves of the building. To this furring can be nailed the planceer which will box in the cornice and be in a horizontal position. The gutter can still be fastened to the end of the rafters as before. This construction is shown in Fig. 2S4. The pieces of furring referred to are shown at A.
False Rafter Construction. It is often desirable, for the sake of architectural effect, to break the surface of the roof just above the eave line, and in order to do this it is necessary to make use of small pieces of rafters, called false rafters, or sometimes "jack" rafters, which are nailed to the ends of the regular rafters. In this case the regular rafters stop at the point where they rest on the plate, and the false rafters project out over the wall line as far as may be desired. These false rafters are cut into various shapes and are usually left exposed on the under side, being in this case made of a better and harder class of wood than that used for the regular rafters. The
gutter may be placed on the ends of these false rafters if desired, but it is more usual to make use of a construction such as is shown in Fig. 285. here it will be seen that the gutter is merely formed up on top of the roof shingling by a piece A which is held in place by the bracket B. The brackets occur at intervals of about 2 feet, while the piece A is continuous. The shingles which cover the roof are stopped on the strip C and the inside of the gutter thus built up is covered with galvanized iron, or copper, to make it water-tight. The ends of the rafters may be finished with a fascia as shown at D, and the space between the false rafters along the wall may be finished ' as shown at E. In place of the wood piece A which forms the out side member of the gutter, a piece of metal may be used to accom plish the same purpose, and this is often done.
Concealed Gutters. Another common form of eave provides a concealed gutter. In this construction the ceiling joists are extended beyond the outside walls and the rafters are cut to set over the plate. The cornice and gutter are illustrated in Fig. 286. The studding is shown at S, and on the plate P the joists C extend over from 8 to 14 inches, depending on the effect desired. Around the joist the planceer Q, the fascia J, the bed N, and crown molding M are.fixed. A notch 0 is cut in the joist and a i-inch piece is nailed in this notch and on the outer end. Tin or copper is used to conduct the water over the gutter. The tin should be nailed to the crown molding and should be run 8 or 10 inches above the shingle line.
Finish for Brick galls. Any of the forms of eave finish described above may be used equally well in cases where the wall is of brick instead of wood. In this case a wood plate is placed on top of the brick wall and the rafters are brought clown over it, and are either extended out over the wall or are fitted with false rafters. The joint between the brick wall and the wood rafters is finished with a wood frieze.
Cornices may be much more elaborate than any of those illus trated above, indeed those shown here are suitable only for the plain est and cheapest kind of work, but the principles of construction are the same in all eases, the difference being in the amount of orna ment applied to the building. The ornament takes the form of molded pieces of timber which are supported by rougher furring pieces placed behind them. Economy demands that the finished pieces be so arranged as to be cut out of boarding of medium thickness, and as much space as possible should be occupied by the rough, concealed furring. As a rule, all of the eave finish can be taken out of 8-inch stuff. Care must be taken always to give the gutters the proper slope to the outlets called spouts" and they should be made large enough so as not to over flow. A gutter should slopes inch to the foot.