Another method is shown in Fig. 270. In this case the board D is again made use of to cover the joint between the sheathing and the foundation wall, and it is nailed directly to the boarding as before, but the piece E is much larger and is blocked out by means of the addition of the piece C, so as to throw the water well away from the masonry. In many respects this detail is the best of the three, as the joint is well covered and at the same time there is pro vided a very good wash for the rain water. There are many other ways of building this part of the finish, but only one more will be shown for use when the walls are to be covered with shingles. Fig. 271 shows how this should be clone. Two or even three blocks, as at F, are nailed to the boarding and the shingles G are bent over them so as to shed the water free of the masonry without further help. They may be finished at the bottom with a molded piece D to hide the joint.
The water table is sometimes omitted entirely and the boarding is started directly from the foundation wall, but this is not considered good practice and will surely be found to be unsatisfactory.
Clapboards for Wall Covering. The clapboards used for cover ing walls are usually of white pine or spruce, though they are some times made from a cheaper timber such as hemlock or fir. They are about 5 or 6 inches wide and about 4 feet long and arc thicker on one side or edge than on the other. The thicker edge measures about 2 inch while the thin edge is only about I inch thick. Each clapboard, therefore, is as shown in Fig. 272, where A is an elevation and B is a section of the board. The tapering section is obtained by sawing the boards from a log, cutting each time from the cireum fcrence inward. The boards are thus all quarter sawed and shrink evenly, if at all, when they arc exposed. When laid up on the side of a building, the clapboards should lap over each other at least 11 inches, as shown in Fig. 273.
Here, A is the clapboarding, B is the sheathing, and C is the studding. As will be seen, the clapboards lap over each other, leaving a certain amount of each board exposed to the weather.
This term "to the weather" is made use of in many specifications to indicate the amount of board which is to be exposed. Thus, "4 inches to the weather" means that 4 inches will be exposed. Building paper should be placed between the clapboarding and the sheathing, as shown at D, to keep out the weather.
Siding. The only difference between common siding and clap boards is in the length of the pieces, the siding coming in lengths of from 6 to 16 feet, while the clapboards are in short lengths as explained above. Common siding is put on in the same way as clapboards,
hut there is manufactured a rabbeted siding which is laid up as shown in Fig. 274. Here the rabbet takes the place of the lap, and is made about 8 inch deep. This siding is also furnished molded to a number of other patterns besides the simple beveled pattern, and is of various widths up to about 12 inches. Sometimes it is nailed directly to the studding, no building paper or outside boarding being used, but this construction, although it is cheap, is not suitable for any but temporary buildings.
Corner Boards. It is cus tomary, whenever the walls of a building are covered with clapboards, to make a special finish at the corners. This finish usually takes the form of two boards, one about 5 inches wide, the other 3:4 inches wide by about 11 inches thick, placed vertically at each side of the corner so as to project 1 inches— the thickness of the board—beyond the face of the sheathing. Thus they form something for the clapboards to be fitted against. The corner boards may be mitered at the corner, but this is not desirable, as it is hard to make such a joint so that it will not open up under the influence of the weather. The corner boards are, therefore, usually finished at the corner with a simple butt joint, the two pieces being securely nailed together. In some styles of work it may be well to give the corner boards a special character, and this can be done by crowning them at the top with a capital, so that they will form a sort of pilaster at each corner of the house. A base may also be added if desired, though it is hard to make a base finish well on top of the water table. Fig. 275 shows a view of a simple corner board in place on the outside corner of a house. A is the corner board, B is the clapboarding, C is the water table, and D is the foun dation wall. Fig. 276 shows a section taken horizontally through the corner of a building with corner boards and clapboards, showing how the corner boards are applied to the outside boarding. In this figure, A is one of the corner boards, B is the outside sheathing, C is the studding at the corner built up of 2X4-inch pieces, and D are the clapboards. The width of the boards may, of course, be varied to suit the taste of the designer.