Mortises are also cut in the sill to receive tenons cut in the lower ends of the studs, as shown at B in Fig. 95. They are cut the full thickness of the studding, about 11 inches in the width of the sill and about 2 inches deep. The position of these mortises is fixed by the spacing of the studding, and by the condition that the outer face of the studding must be flush with the outer face of the sill in order to leave a plain surface for the board ing.
The sills are usually halved and pinned together at the corners, as shown in Fig. 96; but sometimes they are fastened together by means of a tenon A cut in one sill, which fits into a mortise cut in the other, as shown in Fig. 97. This method may be stronger than the other, but the advantage gained is not sufficient to compensate for the extra labor involved. Sills under 20 feet in length should be made in one piece, but in some cases splicing may be necessary. In such cases a scarf joint should always be used, the splice should be made strong, and the pieces should be well fitted together.
In some parts of the country it is customary to "build up" the sill from a number of planks 2 or 3 inches thick, which are spiked securely together. A 6X6-inch sill can be made in this way from three planks 2 inches thick and 6 inches wide, as shown in Fig. 98. Planks of any length may he used, and may be so arranged as to break joints with each other in order that the sill may be continuous without splicing. It is often easier and cheaper to build up a sill in this way than it is to use a large, solid timber, and if the parts are well spiked together, such a sill is fully as good as the other. When a sill of this kind is used, however, it should always be placed on the wall in such a way that the planks of which it is composed will rest on their edges, and not lie flat.
Corner Posts. After the sill is in place, the first floor is usually framed and roughly covered at once, to furnish a surface on which to work, and a sheltered place in the cellar for the storage of tools and materials, after which the framing of the wall is continued. The corner posts are first set up, then the girts and the plate are framed in between them, with the braces at the corners to keep everything in place; and lastly the frame is filled in with studding. The corner
posts are pieces 4 X8 inches, or sometimes two pieces 4X4 inches placed close together. Corner posts must be long enough to reach from the sill to the plate. The post is really a part of only one of the two walls which meet at the corner, and in the other wall a "furring stud" of 2 x4-inch stuff is placed close up against the post so as to form a solid corner, and give a firm nailing for the lathing in both 'ails. This arrangement is shown in plan in Fig. 99, A is the corner post, B the furring stud, C the plastering, and D the boarding and shingling on the outside. Sometimes a 4 X4-inch piece is used for the corner post and a 2 X 4-inch furring stud is set close against it in each wall to form the solid corner, as shown in plan in Fig. 100; but a 4X4-inch stick is hardly large enough for the long corner post, and the best practice is to use a 4 X 8-inch piece although in very light framing a 4 X 6-inch piece might be used. A tenon is cut in the foot of the corner post to fit a mortise cut in the sill, and mortises CC, Fig. 101, are cut in the post at the proper level to receive the tenons cut in the girts. Holes must also be bored to receive the pins DD which fasten these members to the post.
The braces are often only nailed in place, but it is much better to cut tenons on the braces for pins, as shown at A in Fig. 102. The plate is usually fastened to the posts by means of spikes only, but it may be mortised to receive a tenon cut in the top of the post.
In the case of a balloon frame no mortises need be cut in the posts for the girts or braces, as they are omitted in this frame; but the post must be notched instead, as shown in Fig. 103, to receive the ledger board or ribbon and the light braces which are sometimes used.
Girts. The girts are always made of the same width as the posts, being flush with the face of the post both outside and inside, and the depth is usually S inches, although sometimes a 6-inch timber may be used. The size is, therefore, usually 4X8 inches. A tenon at each end fits into the mortise cut in the post, and the whole is secured by means of a pin DD, as shown in Fig. 101. The pin should always be of hard wood and about ; inch in diameter.