Old paint, however, is not always in this condition. If it adheres well, it may be cleaned with an ordinary scrubbing brush and water, and when it is quite dry, the new paint may be applied. Sometimes the paint seems in good condition, only it has faded and lost its luster; in such cases a coat of boiled oil, or raw oil with dryer, is all that is needed.
It is well to paint the trim—that is, the window-casings, door casings, corner-pieces, and the like—before painting the body of the house; then the paint can be applied to the flat surfaces more neatly than is otherwise likely to be done. Paint should be applied in thin coats, well brushed on; it is not unusual to see paint come off from re-entrant angles while it is still good on flat surfaces, because it was difficult to brush the paint properly in those places. There is a great difference in durability between a thin paint flowed on with a large, flat brush, and one of proper consistency well brushed out with a brush of medium size. In all painting on wood, it is desirable to brush it on
with the grain of the Wood; and by painting only a few boards at once, we may avoid laps by painting the whole length. Rough surfaces hold paint better, and more of it, than smooth. A gallon of paint will cover, one coat (on a painted or well-primed surface), about 600 square feet, not flowed on, but well brushed out in a thin film. The priming coat will not cover more than 300 or 400 square feet to the gallon. In measuring the outside of a house for surface, make no deductions for doors and windows; if the trim is to be painted a different color, from one-sixth to one-third of the paint will be required of that color. Paint should be stirred frequently while using. A coat of dry paint is from a 3 -6 to T. 613-6 of an inch in thickness.
Paint dries relatively fast on roofs; but as a roof paint is very slow-drying, plenty of time must be allowed between coats. A new reef should receive three coats. Metal gutters and spouts are to be treated the same way. Do not forget that new tin or galvanized iron is difficult to paint; have it very thoroughly scrubbed, even though it looks perfectly clean, and then rub the paint on well with the brush. Metal spouts will usually be painted the same color as the wall of the house.
Sometimes shingle roofs are painted with fireproof paint. This is not really fireproof, but considerably retards the spread of fire, after it has become thoroughly dry; when fresh, it does not even do that; nor does it have much effect after it has been on a year or so. It may be made by adding to a gallon of any good paint about a pound of powdered boracic acid. When strongly heated, this material fuses and forms a sort of glass, which keeps the air from the wood. It is after a time washed out by the rain.
Canvas roofs are prepared in the following manner: The canvas (10-oune duck is often used) is first nailed down, care being taken to draw it tight; it will show some wrinkles, but these are not to be allowed to accumulate to form a large wrinkle or fold. Then the canvas is thoroughly wet; it shrinks, and all the little wrinkles disappear. It is a common practice to paint it while it is still wet, this being an excep tion to all other practice; but some wait until it is dry. The writer has been accustomed to the latter method, and has not found that the canvas shows wrinkles on drying, while the results are all that can be desired. A well-painted canvas roof is very durable and satisfactory.