The return bend for cast soil-pipe is represented by Fig. 176; single Y, by Fig. 177; double Y-branch, by Fig. 178; sanitary tee, by Fig. 179; and the double sanitary tee, by Fig. 180. The tee and double tee shown are known as the sanitary pattern, on account of the curved branches, which direct the flow in the pipe line somewhat in the same manner as does a Y-connection. Common tees and crosses are made in strictly right-angle branches. The 4-bend is also made with right and left side-outlet, as indi cated by Fig. 181; and with heel-out let, as shown in Fig. 182. Tees, crosses, and Y's can be had with side outlet as shown at b, Fig. 183. These auxiliary openings, while always termed outlets by the trade, are in fact inlet branches. Long branch fittings, with a branch equivalent to a Y and 1-bend connection, are also made.
Offsets may be had to offset the pipe as little as half of one diameter, and up to six diameters. • Any of the standard branches can be had with trap-screw clean-out, as shown at a, Fig. 184. The bolted-plate clean-out, indicated in Fig. 185, is undesirable, as the cover can rarely be securely replaced when removed for purposes of cleaning. A series of cast soil-pipe fittings are made with branches threaded for wrought pipe, as shown in Fig. 186. These meet the demand for a means of easily connecting wrought vent-pipes to a cast-iron pipe line. Similarly, combination lead and brass soldering nipples threaded for wrought pipe are now carried by supply houses, the lead being furnished straight, as shown in Fig. 187, or in the form of a quarter-bend. These are very convenient for use with wrought vents, and are equivalent to the regular combination lead and iron ferrule, shown in Fig. 188; they can be used with cast pipe by calking in. This combination ferrule—commonly known as a "Raymond" ferrule, from its maker—is sometimes damaged during the process of calking; and sometimes the outer covering is burned through in making the solder joint. For these reasons, its use is prohibited in many localities.
Brass ferrules for calking-in make a Wetter job than lead and iron; but in case of their use, it is necessary to wipe on a piece of lead, which in cramped connections is sometimes most inconvenient; and both the ferrule and the work are more expensive.
The recessed or hub ferrule shown at b, Fig. 189, is a good form of ferrule. It is not satisfactory, however, as usually sold. The stock length brings the increase in diameter necessary for the recess close to the face of the hub of the fitting, making it very difficult to yarn and calk, even before the lead pipe is wiped on; and as these joints are usually wiped before the ferrule is calked in place, it is difficult to make safe joints where they are used. The forms of brass ferrule generally used are shown at c and e, Fig. 189, the lead end of e being contracted for use with 1i-inch pipe or less.
Soil-Pipe Joints. A section of a soil-pipe joint is shown in Fig. 190. The materials used in making these joints are good, clean hemp or oakum, with melted lead poured in and afterward calked. The packing to support the lead should be of uniform strand, evenly twisted. When a joint is made with pipe cut to length, the bead having been cut off the spigot end, care must be taken to pack the yarn uniformly tight without driving it through into the bore of the pipe, and in a way to keep the spigot end in the center of the hub space so as to get a uniform thickness of lead on all sides. As an extra precaution in difficult places,
the packing is sometimes dipped in linseed oil, and then wrung as dry as possible, before yarning a joint. This gives almost positive assurance that the joint will not leak water.
Likewise, shavings of sperm candle whittled in on top of the yarn before pouring the lead, pre vent water leakage.
Some plumbers pour in just enough lead to make a ring around, and calk it down reasonably tight on top of the yarn, before pouring the hub full. Unless very little yarn is used, this does not leave a solid ring of lead deep enough to in sure the best joint; and if too little yarn is em ployed, there is danger of the lead burning its way through into the pipe. This method is therefore undesirable in either case.
Care should be taken before pouring a joint, to see that no threads of yarn are standing above the face of the hub; otherwise a leak may result from stray threads protruding. Becoming charred by the heat of the lead, they soon leave a tiny hole through the lead, from which trouble results. No matter what the position of the joint, the entire charge of lead to complete it should be poured at one time, and the lead should be hot enough to insure a true union of the meeting edges. If the pipe is large or the weather very cold, it is better to warm the hub in order to insure the flowing edges uniting, than to risk pouring the lead so hot that it may burn through the packing.
It is a matter of opinion, whether or not a joint should always be calked while it is hot. If the pipe is heavy enough to stand it without cracking the hub, it can make little difference whether the joint is calked hot or cold. If the pipe is light, a hard calking while the joint is hot and the hub expanded may cause splitting of the hub when it contracts from cooling. The best plan appears to be that of driving down the lead reasonably tight while it is hot and therefore softer than when cold, at which time it will give and adjust itself to the irregularities of the hub and spigot. Then, a little later, calk twice around with a thin-edge tool, driving the lead into contact with the spigot surface on one edge, and against the inner hub surface on the other.
Floor Joints. A closet floor joint of good type is shown in Fig. 191. In this joint, a bevel-edged brass floor-plate is screwed to the floor and well soldered to the end of the lead bend, as indicated. The floor-plate has slots for the closet bolts, so that any variation in the position of the bolt holes in the flange of the closet pedestal will not cause trouble when aligning the bolts, as they can be slid along in the slots of the plate to the required position. Common putty, plaster of Paris, or hydraulic cement may be used instead of a rubber gasket; but the latter two materials make it difficult to remove the closet from its setting, and there is always risk of breaking the flange if the pedestal has to be moved for any reason.
A secure type of joint, introduced a few years since, is shown in Fig. 192. This connection is well suited for such types of closets as can be revolved about the outlet, but cannot be used with closets where the outlet is well toward the rear of the fixture