With the change of fortune that accompanied the French Revolution the two categories continued to exist. For State occasions the Napoleonic court imitated the parures of the ancient regime, with the addition of a jewelled coronet of classic form, while for every-day wear they, and poorer folk, contented themselves with parures set with semi precious stones, or shell cameos in mounts of delicate filigree of gold enamelled with small patterns in black or blue. Other jewel lery of modest intrinsic value depended on sentimental interest, and often contained the hair of a friend, relative or lover. With the Restoration in France and the shifting back of the centre of fashion to a class impoverished by revolution and war, such semi precious jewellery became increasingly important, and quantities of topaz, amethysts and aquamarines were imported from Brazil and Mexico. Diamonds and precious stones were set in light flower, leaf and wheat ear patterns that could be executed in stones of lesser size. With the reign of Louis Philippe the influ ence of mediaeval and Renaissance decoration was shown in the use of Gothic arcadings and Baroque scrolls on jewels, but there was no revival of the refined technique of the earlier period.
Jewellery, indeed, became steadily more stereotyped in its form and more industrial and mechanical in its production.
With the creation of the Second Empire (Pl. III., fig. 2) many jewels were designed on simple lines—frets, crescents, stars and so on—simply to display the diamonds with which they were set, while others attempted to imitate flowers with inartistic verisimili tude (P1. III., fig. 5). A few jewellers, such as Lucien Falize in Paris and Giuliano in London, revived the Renaissance style alike in design and technique, and produced beautiful work in enamelled and jewelled gold. At the same time others—notably Castellani of Rome and Fontenay of Paris—drew inspiration from such classical jewellery as that of the Campana collection, and pro duced delicate "Etruscan" work in gold adorned with filigree.