First cleanse the face thoroughly with cold cream, then wash with warm water and mild soap to remove all traces of oil or cream from the pores. Apply foundation sparingly with finger tips over entire surface of the face. Blend thoroughly and pat well to avoid heavy spots or areas of foundation. They will absorb more powder and, al though not visible to the naked eye, will photograph as a smudge or discolouration. Moist rouge application should start at the heaviest or fullest part of the cheek. Blend it out carefully in the desired area. Avoid heavy spots or blotches. Eye shadow should be applied before powder. Start at the lash line, blend out and up to the eyebrow, reducing the density of colour from the lash line or the full part of the eyelid. Before applying powder, in spect your make-up thoroughly. Retrace with finger tips the fore head lines, under the eyes, around the nose and corners of the mouth. First look up and powder the lower lid and around the eye. Then start the general powder application at a receding point such as a hollow cheek, receding chin, or a thin neck. Do not rub the powder on. Pat it firmly and remove all excess powder with a powder brush (similar to a baby brush). Make sure the powder is brushed from the lashes, the brow, and hairline. Eyebrow pencil is carefully applied with small, delicate strokes as though touching up each individual hair. For unruly brows, carefully comb white moustache pomade through them. When applying mascara, to prevent fluttering of the eyelid, close the eye and place the first two fingers on the lid, pulling gently upward—at the same time attempting to keep the eye closed. This will enable you to apply mascara to the lash freely. Follow the same procedure in applying mascara to the lower lashes, placing the fingers on the cheek and pulling gently downward. Keep the eye open. Dry rouge is used after powdering to retrace or intensify the moist rouge area. It is most essential in colouring the fine growth • of hair that is apparent on the sides of the face. Be sure to re-powder the cheeks before the dry rouge application. Dry rouge is best applied with a baby brush. In applying lipstick, determine the desired shape and use a quarter-inch flat camel's hair paint brush. Remove excess lip rouge with cleansing tissue.
Use the same procedure, except that cheek and lip rouge, and mascara are minimized. The basic foundation for men ranges from No. 19 to 21.
A high arched eyebrow diminishes the size of the eye. The brow should never be any higher above the eve than the normal opening of the eye itself. Eyebrow pencil is permissible to outline the eye ; but blend it carefully with a small brush to avoid an obvious effect. For small eyes, lower the line under the eye a trifle and use mascara only on the tips of the lashes. For deep-set eyes use very little shadow and none in the extreme hollows of the eyelid. For dark circles under the eyes, use foundation two shades lighter than the basic foundation. To eliminate puffs under the eyes, use one shade darker than basic foundation on the puff itself. To create width between the eyes add false lashes to the outside corners. Do not pencil or line the
inside corners next to the nose.
For a double chin use two or three shades darker than the basic tone used on the face. A dark shade of dry rouge is per missible after powdering to increase the shadowed effect. For a receding chin, use foundation two shades lighter than the basic tone and a small amount of a light-toned dry rouge after powder ing.
With a full or broad jaw-line, make up the width of the mouth to the fullest extent. A small mouth would accentuate the width of the face. To make the mouth appear smaller, increasing the illusion of width in a narrow jaw-line, do not make it up to the fullest extent. Trace the desired shape and size with a camel's hair brush. Never allow the corners of the mouth to droop, unless you are playing a character part. Droop ing lines in the corners of the mouth, eyes, and eyebrows denote tragedy. Upward, curved lines denote relief and comedy. (Note the two masks on a theatre program.) Hints on Character Make-up.—Beard.—Paint the desired area of the face with spirit gum. Take small pieces of hair of the proper length, holding between thumb and forefinger so it hangs perfectly straight and cut one end on diagonal line. Start placing the diagonal end of the hair under the chin and follow the natural growth of the desired beard. Always use a lighter shade of crepe hair to finish off the edges. This method can be used for applying the brows and changing the front hairline.
To duplicate an historical character, obtain a photograph or likeness and carefully paint a portrait on your own face through the use of high-lights and shadows.
Strapping Eyes for Chinese or Mongolian Men and Women.— Cut a, small piece of fish-skin 'lin. long and fin. wide. Taper one end to a point. Double a piece of adhesive tape over the other end. When doubled, the tape should be fin. long. Punc ture a small hole through the tape and the fish-skin. Place a rubber band through the hole. The point of the fish-skin should be in the opposite direction from the pull. Place the fish-skin on the spirit gum area, which should be the same size as the pattern, and allow to dry. Tie the rubber bands from each eye around the head above the ears and fasten at the back of the head with thread. This same idea can be used for sagging or double chins by placing the fish-skin and tape just below the temple hairline or in front of the ears. Tie on top of the head. Cover with basic tone of foundation in both cases. Always accentuate or high-light the eyelids, cheekbones, nostrils, and full upper lip in Chinese and Mongolian make-up.
Noses.—To change the shape of a nose, use nose putty or small pieces of cotton and spirit gum. Sponge rubber, cut in the desired shape and covered with cotton and spirit gum is also effective. Coat with flexible collodion before applying make-up foundation.
Negro Characters.—Create width in nostrils by using small pieces of rubber tubing or hollow hazel-nuts with the ends cut off. Place these carefully into each nostril. Make-up foundation is dark brown. Powder with straight talc. Brush vigorously until you get a polished effect. Mix a small portion of dark brown foundation with your lip rouge for mouth make-up.