The Fijian islands are mostly extinct volcanic elevations (some up to about 4,000 ft.) which with very few exceptions are sur rounded by fringing reefs ; but, especially on the eastern side of the group, there are many coral atolls with or without openings into central lagoons.
The surface of the high islands is very rugged, the vegetation is luxuriant, and the general appearance very beautiful. There is not much level country, except for certain rich tracts along the coasts of the two large islands (Viti Levu and Vanua Levu), especially near the mouths of the rivers, and these larger islands have a con siderable extent of dry and open undulating country on their lee sides. Streams and rivers are abundant, the latter very large in proportion to the size of the islands, affording a water way to the rich districts along their banks. These and the extensive mud flats and deltas at their mouths are often flooded, their fertility is thus increased, though at a heavy cost to the cultivator. The Rewa river, debouching through a wide delta at the south-east of Viti Levu, is navigable for small vessels for 4o m. ; also in this island there are the Navua and Singatoka rivers (flowing south), and the Nandi (west), and the Ba (north-west). The chief stream of Vanua Levu is the Dreketi, flowing west, breaking through the mountains in a fine valley; for this island practically consists of one long range, whereas in Viti Levu the main valleys and separating ranges radiate for the most part from a common centre. Viti Levu is the most important island not only from its size, but from its fertility, variety of surface, and population, which is over one-third of that of the whole group. At Suva, the capital of the Colony of Fiji, there is a very good harbour. Vanua Levu is less fertile ; it has good anchorages along its entire south ern coast. Of the other high islands, Taveuni, remarkable for a lake (presumably a crater-lake) at the top of its lofty central ridge, is fertile, but exceptionally devoid of harbours; whereas the well timbered island of Kandavu has an excellent one, Ngaloa, on its southern side. On the island of Ovalau, an island which contains in a small area a remarkable series of gorge-like valleys between commanding hills, is the town of Levuka, the capital until 1882. The chief islands scattered about the western side of the Koro Sea (Koro, Ngau, Moala and Totoya), are all productive, elevated and picturesque, and afford good anchorage.
The islands of the chain limiting the Koro Sea on the east are smaller and more numerous. At the north of the chain are the Exploring isles, a somewhat scattered group surrounded by a barrier reef, 77 m. in circuit ; on the western side of which is Vanua Mbalavu (14 m. long and from 1 to m. broad) with several peaks, the highest of which rises to 93o ft.; it is a centre of native trade. Farther south in the chain, and somewhat to the east, is Mango (3 m. in diameter, and almost surrounded by a reef half a mile broad), remarkable for a subterranean outlet of the waters from the fertile valley in its midst. Farther south again is Lakemba, a rounded, volcanic island, from 4 to 51 m. in diameter, its highest point rising to 72o ft., and surrounded by a fringe of coral extending from 2 to io cables from the shore. It also is an important centre of native trade. Farther south is a welter of small volcanic coral-reef surrounded islands, ending at Vatoa (lat. 49' S., long. 13' W.), the only Fijian island visited by Capt. Cook-and by him named Turtle island.
The Fiji islands lie beyond the limits of the perpetual south east trade wind, while not within the range of the north-west mon soons. From April to November the winds are steady between south-east and east-north-east, and the climate is cool and dry, after which the weather becomes uncertain and the winds often northerly, this being the wet, warm season. From November to March heavy gales are frequent, and hurricanes sometimes occur between these months-though, curiously enough, very rarely in February. The rainfall is much greater on the windward than on the lee sides of the islands (about II° in. in Suva) ; the mean tem perature is much the same, viz., about F. ; in the hills the tem perature sometimes falls below The climate, especially from November to April, is somewhat enervating to the Europeans, but not unhealthy. Malaria is hardly known; but severe epidemics of dengue fever and of influenza sometimes occur. Dysentery, which is common, and the most serious disease in these islands, is said to have been unknown before the incoming of Europeans.