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St Davids

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ST. DAVID'S (TYDDEwI), a cathedral village-city of Pem brokeshire, Wales, situated near the sea to the south-east of St. David's head, the most westerly promontory of south Wales. Pop. (1921), 1,644. St. David's is lam. from Netterson G.W.R. station, and about 16 m. S.W. from Fishguard. The little town, locally known as "the city," stands in a lofty position near the cathedral close, and consists of five streets focusing on the square, called Cross Keys, the ancient market place still possessing its market cross (restored 1873). The origin of the fine little cathedral and its village "city" in an area so remote under mod ern conditions is of special interest. North-west Pembrokeshire, like most western promontories of Britain, France and Spain, is remarkably rich in old stone monuments (menhirs, dolmens and stone circles), a fact pointing in all probability to its being on the coastwise and transpeninsular route frequented by prehis toric traders from the Mediterranean to Ireland. (See PEMBROKE SHIRE.) The little boats of old were driven hither and thither at the mercy of wind and tide, so the coastland of St. David's head became dotted with alternative landing places, e.g., Porth y Rhaw, St. Non's Bay, Porth Clais, Porth Stinian, Whitesand Bay, which seem to have made the neighbourhood important in pre-Christian times, as one may judge from folk tradition, monuments on the headland, etc.

The pre-Christian tradition was continued by the Celtic saints moving between Ireland and Wales. In early mediaeval days the same route grew important, as pilgrims moved to and from the shrine of St. Iago da Compostella in north-west Spain. (See Hart well Jones, "Celtic Britain and the Pilgrim Movement," Y Cymm rodor 1912.) The little landing places on the shore now had Christian chapels, where prayers were possibly said for safe voyages. The most important ruins at present are those of St. Justinians. At a focus behind a group of these small ports, in the quiet sheltered, well-watered valley of the Alun, the fine cathedral of SS. David and Andrew was built, and on the high ground around, as if sheltering it still further, the "village-city" grew. Throughout the middle ages the cathedral was the centre of pilgrimage and the mediaeval roads (often marked by sacred wells) may be traced across Pembrokeshire focusing on St. David's. Two pilgrimages to St. David's were popularly thought to equal one to Rome itself. The early holders of the see ventured, while the central government was weak, to exercise metropolitan rights over much of south Wales, but the increasing power of the Norman penetration reached St. David's and Anselm's forcible appointment of Bernard—a Norman monk—to be bishop in 1115 made St. David's a suffragan see of Canterbury. A conciliatory step, it would appear, was the canonization of David about 1120. Gerald de Barri (Giraldus Cambrensis) strove vainly to regain the ancient power of St. David's from 1199-1203.

The cathedral church is partly built of

a beautiful purple-hued sandstone, quarried locally. Its proportions are : length (exclu sive of the Trinity and Lady chapels), f t. ; breadth of nave and aisles, 5 I ft.; breadth of transepts, including tower, '16 ft.; and height of central tower 116 feet. The earliest and main portion of the existing fabric was erected under Bishop Peter de Leia (1176-98) in the transitional Norman-English style. Bishop David Martyn (129o-1328) built the Lady chapel; Bishop Henry de Gower (1328-47) made many additions in the Decorated style, including the stone rood-screen and southern porch ; and Bishop Edward Vaughan (1509-22) erected the Trinity chapel between the choir and Lady chapel. The cathedral suffered severely during the changes brought about by the Reformation and at the hands of Bishop William Barlow (1536-48) and again during the Civil Wars of the 17th century. Subsequent restora tions took place. The interior of the nave, separated by six wide bays from the aisles, is singularly imposing with its triforium and clerestory. It possesses an elaborate roof of Irish oak, the gift of Treasurer Owen Pole (c. 1500). The nave is divided from the choir by Bishop Gower's fine stone screen, whilst the choir itself contains the richly carved stalls erected by Bishop Tully (146o-81), the episcopal throne, and an elegant oaken screen that serves to separate choir and presbytery. Bishop Vaughan's chapel contains fine Tudor fan-vaulting, and the Lady chapel good decorated sedilia. To the north of the cathedral is to be seen the ruined shell of the beautiful chapel with an adjoining tower, forming part of the college of St. Mary, founded by John of Gaunt and Bishop Adam Houghton in 1377.

On the west bank of the Alun stand the splendid ruins of the episcopal palace erected by Bishop Gower (c. 1342). The palace was built for residential purposes rather than for defence and oc cupies three sides of a quadrangle 120 ft. square, and, though roofless and deserted for nearly three centuries, retains most of its principal features. The great hall, 96 ft. by 33 ft., possesses a traceried wheel-window ; the chief portal is still imposing ; and the chapel retains its curious bell-turret ; while the peculiar but graceful arcaded parapet of the roof extends intact throughout the whole length of the building. Partially dismantled by Bishop Barlow (c. 1540) the half-ruined palace was occasionally occupied by succeeding bishops prior to the Civil Wars.

The Close, 18 ac. in extent and extra-parochial, contains the deanery and other residences of the cathedral clergy, mostly oc cupying the sites of ancient buildings. It formerly owned four gateways, of which the South or Tower gate alone remains.