Augsburg, famous in the 17th century for its printing on linens, etc., supplied Alsace and Switzerland with many craftsmen in this process. After the revocation of the edict of Nantes, French refugees took part in starting manufactories of both painted and printed cloths in Holland, England and Switzerland; some few of the refugees were allowed back into France to do the same in Normandy; manufactories were also set up in Paris, Marseille, Nantes and Angers; but there was still greater activity at Geneva, Neuchatel, Zurich, St. Gall and Basle. The first textile-printing works in Great Britain are said to have been begun towards the end of the i 7th century by a Frenchman on the banks of the Thames near Richmond, and soon afterwards a more considerable factory was established at Bromley Hall in Essex; many others were opened in Surrey early in the i8th century. At Mulhouse the enterprise of Koechlin, Schmatzer and Dollfus in 1746, as well as that of Oberkampf at Jouy, led to a still wider spread of the industry in Alsace. In almost every place in Europe where it was taken up and followed, it was met by local and national prohi bitions or trade protective regulations and acts, which, however, were gradually overcome.
Invention of Roller Printing.—Towards the end of the i8th century a revolution in the British manufacture of printed tex tiles was brought about through the invention of cylinder or roller printing from metal plates. This is usually credited to Ober
kampf of Jouy, but it seems to have occurred also to a Scotsman named Bell, and was successfully applied in a large way about 1785 at Monsey near Preston. From this and the calico-printing works at Manchester in 1763, and in Scotland in 1768, the present huge proportions of the industry in Great Britain have been developed.
It is hardly necessary to give in this brief account illustrations of the different types of patterns used in the various European countries. Typical specimens of East Indian painted and printed calicoes for coverlets and other draperies are shown in the Indian division of the Victoria and Albert Museum. These are sui generis, and therefore differ from the bulk of Western prints on chintz, cretonne, etc., which together with a less quantity of printing on satin, silk, velvet, crępe and the like are principally from adapta tions of weaving patterns. An interesting series of over 2,500 patterns, chiefly of this character, was made by M. Corimand between 1846 and 186o, and is preserved in the National Art Library at South Kensington. For many years of the latter part of the 19th century, William Morris designed and pro duced attractively ingenious floral and bird patterns, admirable in contrasts of bright colours, frequently basing his arrange ment of crisply defined forms in them upon that of Persian surface ornament.