It must not be supposed that this quality of china glossing was considered good enough for a first-class residence. Far from it. It was not considered that good work could be done with less than six coats, and frequently from ten to twelve coats were given, and at least forty-eight hours were allowed between coats. When high grade work was to be done a coat of half white lead and half zinc white thinned with turpentine was often given after the last lead coat men tioned above, following this with one or two coats of zinc white ground in damar varnish, and fin ishing with from one to three coats of clear damar varnish. The work was sandpapered smooth after each coat, and was rubbed with pumice and water on the last coat of zinc in damar, and was mossed down with curled hair between the damar coats.
It is impossible to do a good job of enamel finish with less than four coats, and a first-class job requires at least eight coats.
Specifications for Enamel Finish. The fol lowing method for enamel finish has been recommended: First coat—White lead mixed with turpentine and lin seed oil, equal proportions.
Second coat—White shellac, grain alcohol.
Third coat—White lead mixed in pure turpentine. Fourth coat—Two parts of lead, one part zinc, mixed in turpentine.
Fifth coat—Lead and zinc, equal proportions, mixed in turpentine.
Sixth coat—Pure zinc and turpentine with small pro portions of white varnish.
Seventh coat—Pure zinc in white varnish.
Eighth coat—Flowing coat of white enamel finishing varnish, full body.
Rub between coats with curled hair or 00 sandpaper. After allowing three days to harden, rub to a dull, even finish with pumice stone and water. If a high polish is desired, this is to be given by rubbing with rotten stone and water.
It is essential that the portions of the build ing to be enameled should be closed to all per sons except those employed ou the work. Man tels, tiling, etc., should be completed, and floor given at least one scouring before the work is begun. Finishing hardware should be left off until after the enameling is completed.
For the seventh coat in the above formula it is better to substitute French zinc white ground in the white varnish, rather than merely thinned or mixed with it. The dry zinc should be taken and run through a mill with the varnish in order to thoroughly incorporate the two together. As very few painters possess the necessary ma chinery to do this, it is better to use the white enamel made by a reputable manufacturer, which is really nothing more than zinc white ground in such a varnish. If tints are required the coloring matter can be added to this coat or a suitable colored enamel may be used. Coach
colors ground in japan should be used for the tinting colors.
The methods already described involve greater expense than most people care to incur, and for this reason many special enamels are put upon the market which will produce a reason ably fair job with four coats, and for cheap work three coats may be deemed sufficient. Each manufacturer offers his product under a differ ent name, but all are substantially the same thing—zinc white and the necessary coloring matter ground in a special white varnish.
With any of these special enamels the process should be about the same. A ground should be prepared by the use of two or three coats of pure white lead, the first coat thinned with half oil and half turpentine, the second and third coats with pure turpentine. These priming coats should be allowed to harden thoroughly, and then should be made perfectly smooth with fine sandpaper, and for good work with pumice and water, being then followed with one or two coats of the special enamel. The last coat may be rubbed to a dull gloss or to a polish if desired.
For the cheapest work, two coats of white lead and one coat of enamel flowed on in a good heavy coat will be reasonably satisfactory.
The best woods for enamel finish are either cherry or whitewood. Cherry, however, is too expensive for the average house. After white wood, the next best wood is white pine, but all pine woods contain more or less resinous sap, which is not always apparent on the surface.
There is also a class of enamels on the mar ket, known as household enamels. They are usually packed in small cans with press tops, en abling them to be easily opened and closed, and are made in various popular colors for enameling odd objects about the house. These enamels are usually made with a quick-drying varnish, so that on large surfaces they cannot as a rule be used without showing laps. They are generally so heavy bodied that it is difficult to apply them to vertical surfaces without sagging.
Special enamels are also made for use on the interior of refrigerators and ice-manufacturing plants and for breweries. These are made with varnishes that resemble spar varnishes in their character, being more elastic, tougher, and slower drying than the white varnishes used in the manufacture of enamels for house work. Special enamels are also made for finishing the interior of bathtubs, and others are made for radiators and other surfaces required to stand high temperatures.