It, is a matter of common knowledge that many of the stronger "still" wines are improved by long life in the bottles, but that a good vintage champagne will improve up to the tenth year is not generally known.
The "dryer" the wine, the more important becomes the time set apart for its ag ing, and the finer the discrimination possible in comparing the merits of different vint ages. In heavily sweetened champagnes, the "sharpness" of immature wine or the medi ocrity of a poor vintage may be obscured to a very considerable extent by the sugar flavor.
An easy test for age in champagne is found in the corks extracted. If the end of the "stem" swells out to approximately the same dimensions as the head of the cork, you may be sure the wine has not been very long in the bottle. If it swells only mod erately, it has been to that extent better matured. If it proves to be lacking entirely in resiliency and retains the straight up and down shape of the inside of the bottle's neck, it has been aged sufficiently for any connoisseur's requirements.
This test applies only to champagne and similar sparkling wines,—not at all to old ports or Rhine wines, or any other wines held longer than ten years to mature, as in such cases new corks are generally substituted about every ten years.
Most of the champagne consumed in Russia, Germany and other countries of Northern Europe is heavily sweetened. An 18 to 20 per cent syrup addition was for merly common in that shipped to Russia and 14 to 16 per cent in that for Germany. About 12% was quite common in France itself. The champagne consumed in those countries is not as sweet as formerly, but it would still be considered excessively so by English and American connoisseurs.
"Sec" or "dry" champagne is wine with only a comparatively little sweetening— generally from 3 to 5 per cent. "Extra dry" has still less. "Brut," which means "natural" or "unsweetened," signifies champagne without any sweetening or, as gen erally, with only the minimum amount.
In Europe, the terms "sec" and "brut" serve to distinguish the wines so labelled from the heavily syrupped types mentioned, but as very little really sweet champagne is ever seen in this country (practically all of the importations being of the "sec," "ex tra sec" and "brut" types), "sec" has come to mean "sweet" to American consumers. It is "dry" in comparison with the sweet European champagne, but it is "sweet" in com parison with the still dryer "brut." A small quantity of champagne sweeter than "sec," though not nearly as sweet as much of that consumed in Northern Europe, is imported and sold here under special trade titles, but the demand for it is comparatively small. "Sec" is probably the
typical American taste, being generally preferred both to sweeter and dryer types.
It is necessary, however, to confine oneself to generalities in discussing this sub ject, as both wines and firm policies vary considerably. It is impossible to give a conclu sive idea of the sweetness of different cuyees by naming the percentage of syrup added, as different quantities may be required to obtain the same degree of sweetness—the same amount of syrup added to a fine mellow wine would make a much sweeter article than if added to a young sharp wine. And, as there is no absolute standard of defi nition for "sec" or "brut," it may happen that one firm's "brut" is sweeter than another's "sec." Another classification, which does not so generally affect the average consumer, but is understood' by the connoisseur, is into non-Mousseax, not effervescent (seldom seen) ; Cremant, moderately sparkling ; Mousseux, sufficiently effervescent to eject the cork with an audible report, and Grand Mousseux, excessively effervescent.
It is very important that champagne should be kept in a dark cellar where the temperature is cool and even. If exposed to light and variable temperature, it will lose much of both effervescence and flavor. The bottles should be laid on their sides, inclined slightly downwards so that the wine keeps the cork moist. If it has been shipped a considerable distance, it should be allowed to rest a few days before serving.
Champagne should be drunk cold, but the cooling process should be gradual—it is detrimental to shake it or turn it violently in the cooler, as is so frequently done.
Several styles of wine glasses are used for serving champagne. The most desirable are those which show the "sparkle" best and retain it the longest. The "hollow-stem" glass is excellent by both these standards. It is important that the glasses be perfectly dry before pouring the wine into them—a damp glass kills much of the sparkle.
As the sale of imported champagne is in this country largely directed by adver tising, it is not generally advisable to stock heavily any brand with which the public is not thoroughly familiar. The French government has restricted the use of the title "champagne" to wine made within a certain clearly defined area, covering nearly all of the Department of Marne—which includes, among others, the cantons of Avize, Ay, Chalons, Epernay and Reims—and a few communes in the Department of Aisne.
There are several American "champagnes" now made which are excellent in quality and show a good profit to the retailer. See AMERICAN WINES.