The Dutch East Indies, especially the islands of Java, Sumatra and Celebes, are famous as the largest exporters of fine coffees. They are best known to the lay public by the name of the island of Java, the most populous of the group and the central point of Dutch commercial activity, but the greater part of the East Indian coffee consumed in the United States is of Sumatra growth. That from Celebes is generally rated the highest in European markets.
Other countries produce in certain sections beans as choice as the very best "Java," but the quantities they can export are comparatively unimportant. The greater output of the Dutch East Indies is partly due to the natural adaptability of soil and climate and partly to the systematic cultivation by native inhabitants under the rule of Holland. In spite of government care there is, however, much variation in the beans grown—a considerable quantity of those exported do not deserve the reputation the fine "Javas" have earned.
East Indian coffees are in this country principally graded by color—"Brown," "Yellow" and "Pale"—the darker beans bringing the highest prices.
This discrimination was originally founded on the fact that some of the choicest varieties of "Java" beans become at the same time browner in color and more mellow and pleasing in flavor in storage and transport—being in the former respect entirely unique. The distinction is not fundamentally accurate, as some of the light bean varieties are better than many of the dark types. In Europe, the yellow colored beans are preferred. When fresh, all East Indian coffees are light sea-green, or blue-green.
Dutch East Indian coffees, other than those grown on the island of Java itself, are now generally described in trade and government circles as "Dutch East Indian," or by trade titles, or by districts, as Padang, Mandheling, Corinchie, Timor, Kroe, etc.
The title "Government" is sometimes applied as a distinguishing title to coffee produced on plantations operated under government supervision—as are all of the old and many of the new plantations.
The title "Old Government Java" was at one time a name to conjure with, for, as first employed, it applied only to beans that had been held—sometimes for considerable periods—in the government storehouses. Until recently, nearly all the produce of the
Dutch East Indies was sold by quarterly government auction, and any goods for which the upset price was not bid were held in the warehouses to await an improvement in market demands—the result being in many cases an improvement also in the coffees, spices, etc., by the opportunity thus given them to mature under the best possible con ditions. The term long ago though deteriorated into a practically meaningless trade title from being applied indiscriminatingly to any brown East Indian coffee irrespec tive of growth or quality, and it is now "out of date," as the government auctions were discontinued in June, 1909, present sales being by contracts with firms or individuals.
"Plantation" or "Private Growth" coffees are those raised on plantations owned and operated by individuals in contra-distinction to those under government super vision. Some are of very high quality.
"Blue-bean Java" is a title occasionally applied to W. I. P. or "Washed" East Indian.
"Liberian-Java" is that grown from shrubs of the Liberian species. Its quality is generally inferior to the Arabian bean varieties.
Arabian coffee is universally termed "Mocha," though no coffee was ever grown in Mocha—which is only a shipping town surrounded by deserts, and not to-day even an important shipping point, as the opening of the Suez Canal transferred nearly all the traffic to the ports of Aden and Hodeidah. This country is supplied from Aden.
The best Arabian and the true "Mocha" coffee is that from the province of Yemen. The most surprising point in connection with its cultivation is that though the coffee shrub requires in other countries rich soil and favorable conditions to produce an acceptable crop, here in Arabia some of the choicest coffee in the world comes from stunted shrubs growing in hot, sandy, stony mountain-side gardens. All conditions, climate and soil seem to be against the shrub's best growth, but by way of recompense it receives the most careful and painstaking human attention. The gardens are arranged on rocky terraces, one above the other, and are irrigated from large reservoirs of spring water placed above the highest.