Cookery

Roasting and Baking.

Old-fashioned "roasting" consisted in cooking meats on a spit before an open fire, as still done in England, but in this country the term is now applied almost exclusively to meat cooked in the oven. The term "baked," formerly applied to all foods cooked in the oven, is now confined to fish, vegetables, etc., as "baked weakfish," "baked potatoes," etc.—meats such as beef, lamb, etc., are similarly cooked but are known as "roast beef," "roast lamb," etc.

"Roasting" involves a considerable loss of weight, but it has always been and still remains one of the most popular methods.

The chief points to be observed are : (1) To keep the oven clean.

(2) To regulate the temperature to avoid both waste of time by too slow cook ing and poor results by excessive heat.

(3) That the greatest heat should be for only the first ten minutes, to obtain the outside "envelope" of coagulated albumen to retain the juices—as men tioned under the head of Boiling—and then should be more moderate—and steady.

(4) That the meat must be basted frequently, as this greatly assists in the cook ing, keeps the meat juicy and improves the flavor.

Both roasting and baking develop the meat extractives or flavor to a high extent, lightening the meat at the same time by the melting of some of the interleaved fat and changing some of the connective tissues into gelatine.

Braising

is a popular French method which may be described as a combination of roasting and stewing. Small joints or pieces of meat are placed in a "braiser"—a shal low stewpan with a closely-fitting, grooved lid—and the cooking, very slowly done, is started on top of the range and finished in the oven.

The braiser is always lined with a "mirepoix," a layer of slices of bacon or ham, vegetables, herbs, etc., and the meat is generally moistened with stock—broth of meats,

vegetables, etc.—or stock and wine. Delicate meats are protected by covering with buttered paper. The result is a very savory and aromatic dish.

Broiling

is the principle of old-fashioned roasting applied to smaller pieces of meat. Important points to be remembered are : (1) To keep the gridiron clean and well greased.

(2) To have a clear, bright fire.

(3) To season the meat before putting it on the gridiron.

(4) To quickly harden both sides to avoid loss of juices.

(5) To avoid dropping fat into the fire, as this results in jerky, smoky flames which are liable to spoil the flavor of the meat.

(6) Not to over-cook.

Frying

has been erroneously described as "boiling in fat"—in effect it more nearly responds to the principle of roasting, as fat or oil attains a much higher temperature than water and more effectually seals the outside of the meat, etc., being cooked. "Dry frying" signifies the use of only a small quantity of fat or oil.

"Deep" or "wet" frying is the use of sufficient fat or oil to cover the article being cooked. Butter is not suitable for deep frying as it is liable to burn before the food is cooked. Olive and other high-class vegetable oils of similar character, do not offer this objection.

Care should be taken to avoid over-frying as the result is to make foods very indi gestible.

Sauter

means "to toss." The food is "tossed" by moving the pan quickly back and for ward over a brisk fire. When applied to meats, it is practically the same as "dry fry ing." When applied to items such as French peas, for example, the "tossing" is con tinued only long enough to heat them through.