For a description of the specific processes for obtaining the green and the black teas generally, we refer to Mr. Fortune's work (Tea Countries of China), or to Johnston's Chemistry of Common Life, vol. i. p. 161, in which it is quoted. It is sufficient here to remark, first, that, in the process of drying, the leaves are roasted and scorched in such a way as necessarily to induce many chemical changes in them ; the result of such changes being to produce the varieties of flavor, odor, and taste by which the dif ferent kinds of teas are distinguished; and secondly, that the dif ferent colors of green and black teas are due to the mode in which the leaves are treated. For green teas, the leaves are roasted in pans almost immediately after they are gathered. After about five minutes' roasting, during which they make a cracking noise, become moist and flaccid, and give out a good deal of vapor, they are placed on the rolling-table, and rolled with the hands. They are then returned to the pans, and kept in motion by the hands ; in about an hour, or rather more, they are well dried, and their color, which is a dull green, but becomes brighter afterwards, has become fixed. The essential part of the whole operation is now over, nothing more being required than to sift and re-fire it. For black teas, the leaves are allowed to be spread out in the air for some time after they are gathered ; they are then further tossed about till they become flaccid ; they are next roasted for a few minutes, and rolled, after which they are exposed to the air for a few hours in a soft and moist state ; and lastly, they are dried slowly over charcoal fires, till the black color is fairly brought out. Hence the dark color and distinguishing flavor of black teas seem due to the long exposure to the atmosphere in the process of dry ing, and the oxygen of the air acting rapidly upon the juices of the leaf, and especially upon the astringent principle during this exposure. For the purpose of giving special scents to different varieties of tea, numerous odoriferous plants are employed in dif ferent parts of the tea country.
Among the tea producing countries China comes first in rank, Japan second and India which now bids fair to out rival both its oriental neighbors, although tea culture only commenced in 1836, comes third. Then follows Java, the Island of Ceylon and Brazil, in the order named, California may become a tea producing state, but the great difficulty it will have to contend against will be the labor.
Tea may be considered to rank foremost of all beverages. From numerous experiments, it appears the introduction into the stomach of a small quantity of theine (such as three or four grains which is the quantity contained in about one-third of an ounce of good tea),has a remarkable effect of diminishing the daily waste or the disintegration of the bodily tissue, thus if the waste be lessened the necessity for food to repair the waste will ( bviously be diminished in an equal proportion. " In other words " says Prof. Johnston, " by the consumption of a certain quantity of tea the health and strength of the body will be maintained in an equal degree upon a smaller quantity of ford. Tea therefore saves food—stands to a large extent in the place of food—while at the same time it soothes the body and enlivens the mind." Analysis. On submitting the ordinary commercial tea to analysis, we find that it contains (1) a volatile or essential oil ; (2) theine or caffeine ; (3) a nitrogenous compound analogous to caseine; (4) a modification of tannin ; besides gum, sugar, starch, fat, woody fibre, salts, &c. The volatile oil gives to tea its peculiar
aroma and flavor. The proportion in which it exists is, according to Miller, about 0.70 per cent. in green, and 0.6 per cent. in black tea. It may be obtained by distilling the tea with water, and is found to exert a most powerfully stimulating and intoxicating effect. In China, tea is seldom used till it is a year old, on account of the well-known intoxicating effects of new tea, due probably to the larger proportion of essential oil which it usually contains. The headache and giddiness of which tea-tasters com plain, and the attacks of paralysis to which, after a few years, persons employed in packing tea are found to be liable, are due to the action of this oil, which, according to Johnston, does not exist in the natural leaf, but is produced during the process of drying and roasting.'—Chemistry of Common, Life, 1855, vol. 1, p. 170.
Green Tea. In noticing green teas of all kinds, we may say that some time ago the government of Great Britain passed a law prohibiting the importation of all faced green tea, which made this country and Canada almost the only outlet for all the con coctions it was possible for Johu Chinaman and even worse than he his neighbors the Japanese, to manipulate. Faced tea is very easily detected by experts, it being of a blueish caste and when drawn (sce Tea Testing) has a collection of scum of the same color on the top of the liquor.
Young Hyson is divided into two distinct kinds, Moyune and Ping Suey. The first usually packed in half chests the latter in boxes. Moyune does not possess the same good make and hand some regularity in leaf as Ping Suey, but is finer in flavor, draw ing a rich, mellow and delicious liquor. While Ping Suey not being so fine is more stringent and coarser. Moyune, Hysons and Gunpowders are as a rule subjected to less adulteration than the rest of green teas.
Hyson is similar in character to Young Hyson, but is much larger and more irregular in the leaf. It draws a good liquor, but its appearance always tells against it when sold by itself. It does very well to mix with black teas as you get quality in the cup at lower prices.
Twankay is still a more unsightly tea than Hyson with larger yellowish badly rolled leaves, and may be ranked as among the cheapest of China and Japanese greens, althmgh there are some times good parcels to be had. It is very seldom retailed alone. The infusion is of a deep yellow and of clear sharp taste. Gun powder is a heavy tea of dark green color and the leaves are rolled in hard balls. Ping Suey for many years ruled the market being so pleasing to the eye and was at one time distinguished as No. 1 or pin head Gunpowder and so on in proportion to the size of the leaf. Adulteration and manipulation to produce this taking leaf became so extensive that it had ultimately to give way to the purer and finer flavored Moyune Gunpowder which may now be considered as the finest specimen of China Green Tea. Imperial does not possess the make of either of the foregoing, but is more flakey and open in leaf and in color a silvery green, it bears a similar relation to the above as Hyson to Young Hyson. Owing to the openness of the leaves these teas will not carry much adulteration.