LAYERING. The laying down of a branch, and covering with earth, in order to induce the formation of roots is termed layering. It used . to be extensively practiced with all that class of plants, as carnations, that were supposed not to strike readily from cuttings, and indeed they do not, exeept under special conditions. But rnodern scientific horticulture has demonstrated that any plant that will strike from layers will do so from cuttings. Layered plants are stronger however, than those from cuttings. _Layering is still quite common with some varieties of grapes, as the Delaware, for instance, that is shy in striking. In the farm garden it is a simple and easy way of propagating, and is done as follows: The branch or shoot to be operated on. is cut with a rather long gash, say one or two inches in length, according to size. A sliver of wood is thrust iu to bold it apart. It is then bent down and laid in a trench so it may be covered two or three inches deep in moist earth, / • •e favorable to the retention of moisture. Thick eeding hrings a close firm sward which keeps the ground shaded, frequent plowings, say once „., in two weeks keeps the sward dense, and prevents 1 the roots from becoming long and straggling. They form a dense mat under the surface and prevent evaporation of moisture from the surface. Thus a closely mown lawn, acts as a constant mulch and the earth will be moister and cooler than on a surface wholly or partially exposed. The thermometer will quickly show this. The moist climate we have not got. Hence, during July and August, it is impossible to keep a lawn per fect in its greenness without a good soaking once a week. Hence, during this time it is not a bad plan to let the grass grow even to a height of ten or twelve inches. After the first heavy rain of the late summer cut the grass as closely as possi ble, and then go over it with the lawn mower and in three days it will again be perfect. In making a lawn, never use lawn grass mixtures. They are as high priced as they are generally worthless. The basis of a good lawn is in the preparation of the soil. Kentncky Blue grass, p,a pratensis, Spear grass, poa rompressa, Red top, Agrostis valgaris, and White clover, Tri fo!iu al repeat should form the hulk of the grasses used. Rye grass, Loliton perenne, is sometiines used, but it does not stand close cutting. Tim othy two pounds per acre is good in the forma tion of a lawn, since it acts a,s a kind of a nurse to the other grasses. The sowing of oats is often advised for the same purpose. Do not use it. It robs the young-grass of nourishment, and is dead just at the time the grass wants the protec tion most. Timothy is not a good lawn grass, it is too coarse, but it may be easily killed by close cutting late in the summer, since it has a bulb just at the top of the ground, which if cut des troys the grass. Sow lawn grass in August. The following is a good mixture: Red-top, one bushel; Kentucky Blue grass, one bushel; Spear grass, one bushel: and two pounds White clover. Then sow two pounds flat turnip. Divide the grass seed into two parts, sow one-half one way and the other half the other way. This is suffi cient for one acre. Finish with the turnip seed and you will not only have your seed sown evenly, but the turnip leaves will partially shade the land, and act as a mulch. Just before it freezes up cover with slough hay or other mulch to protect the grass from heaving the first win ter; early the next spring rake off the mulch cleanly, sow two bushels salt per acre, roll as soon as the land is firm enough, and if you have prepared the whole as directed you will have a first class lawn. At any cost, the surface of the
land must be perfectly smooth and level before sowing. This may generally be accomplished by means of a revolving or other harrow and a level ,r, two or three hard wood scantling eight feet long, one side brought down to a sharp edge, the whole fastened together,lwo feetapart, aud drawn by means of a chain from each side ending in a toggle link. If the soil is clayey, plant it to some hoed crop, as potatoes, before making the and firmly pegged in place. In the case of grape vines, the whole branch is covered, when it will generally form roots, and a separate plant at every joint. With carnations and that chtss of short stemmed plants, the cut portion is pegged down and covered, and the tip of the shoot left out. The following cut will explain the manner of rooting a hranch without severing it from the plant. It has been in tc,e for many years with pot plants, and is also useful with hard wooded plants. Select the shoot to be operated upon, pass a small pot carefully over the branch, cut diagonally half way through the branch, about midway of the pot, with a long cut, hold this slit open with a chip, ' and pack the earth firmly about the branch, fastening _the pot so it will not move. The ,details for layering the grape will answer for all plants that can be layered out of doors. They are as follows: For the propagation of plants for removal, the vine dresser selects such parts of the branches _as may suit hi,: purpose when he is going over his vineyard at the season of winter pruning. These are left, instead of being cut off as in the regular trimming; and they must be so situated as to be easily bent doNvn to the ground. After dressing the vine yard in the spring, these branches are either at once pegged down and buried in the soil, with .the smaller twigs protruding, or shallow trenches are opened, into which the branch to be layered ;is simply pegged down, if it be a vigorous cane of the last year's growth. As the spring opens, the shoots must joe then tied to a stake. As soon as the new wood at the lower joints begins to harden, mellow earth should be gradually drawn up to them, and they will immediately put forth a circle of roots from near their junc tion with the old shoot, which roots greatly aid their growth and relieve the mother vine. In the autumn, the layered branches may be taken up and divided, when every bud which has forced up a shoot will be found to have become a strong well-rooted plant; so that, in this way, a large inerea,se may be made, and the roots, being in a circle, are well disposed for planting, and may be removed from the soil without injury. Layers should never be allowed to remain attached to tlae parent vine after the first season, as they are believed to be injurious. It will also be perceived tbat this sort of robbery of a plant will materially affect its bearing; so that, where cuttings grow readily, as is remark ably the case with the Catawba, Concord, etc., the plan is not generally pursued. With the Herbemont and the Schuylkill or Cape, which are difficult to grow from cuttings, and with new varieties which it is proposed to multiply, this plan is generally adopted. Some persons prefer layered plants to those grown from cuttings, on account of the arrangement of the roots. Fqr home use, they are greatly to be preferred, because they may be brought into bearing much sooner than cuttings planted in the vineyard at the same time, and because a large number may be grown from the old vines.