Dress

persons, worn, shirt, girdle, manner, arm, robe, shown and sleeves

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(2) Shirt. The shirt worn by the superior classes is of the same shape, but of finer materials. If we call this a shirt, the Hebrews doubtless had it—the sole dress (excepting the cloak) of the poor, and the inner robe of the rich. Such, probably, were the 'sheets' (translated 'shirts' in some versions), of which Samson despoiled thirty Philistines to pay the forfeit of his riddle (Judg. xiv :13, tg). It is shown from the Talmud, indeed, that the He brews of later days had a shirt called chaluk, which it would appear was often of wool (Light foot, Hor. Heb. on Luke ix:3), and which is de scribed as the ordinary inner-garment, the outer being the cloak or mantle. This shows that the shirt or frock was, as in modern usage, the ordi nary dress of the Jews, to which a mantle (abba, hyke, or hournoos) was the outer covering.

(3) Gown or Caftan. Among all the garments of persons of the superior class the shirt covered by a striped (sometimes figured) gown or caftan, of mingled silk and cotton, was commonly worn. It descends to the ankles, with long sleeves, extend ing a few inches beyond the fingers' ends, but di vided from a point a little above the wrist, so that the hand is generally exposed, though it may be concealed by the sleeve when necessary: for it is customary to cover the hands in the presence of a hands may be covered), the robe of ceremony, and is worn in the presence of superiors and persons of rank. Over one or both of these robes may he worn the abba, liournoos, or hyke, in any of the modes already indicated. Aged persons often wrap up the head and shoulders with the latter, in the manner shown.

(6) Hyke or Wrapper. This same hyke or wrapper is usually taken by persons going on a journey, for the purpose of being used in the same manner as a protection from the sun or wind. This is shown in the annexed cut, representing a group of persons equipped for travel. The robe is here more succinct and compact, and the firm manner person of high rank. It is very common, especially in winter, for persons to sleep without removing this gown, but only unloosing the girdle by which it is bound. It is not unusual within doors to see persons without any article of dress outside this; but it is considered decidedly as an undress. and no respectable person is beheld out of doors. or receives or pays visits, without an outer cover ing. Hence persons clad in this alone are said to he 'naked' in Scripture—that is, not in the usual complete dress ; for there can be no manner of doubt that this, or something like this, is the -neth of the Scripture ( Exod. xxviii :4o; Job xxx:18; Is. xxii :21 etc.). A similar robe is worn by the women, as was also the case among the Israelites (2 Sam. i9; Cant. v :3). It

is in the bosom of this robe that various articles are carried, and hence the Scriptural expression of giving things 'into the bosom.' (4) The Girdle. The girdle worn over this. around the waist, is usually a colored shawl. or long piece of figured white muslin. The girdle of the poorer classes is of coarse stuff, and often of leather, with clasps. This leathern girdle is also much used by the Arabs. and by persons of condition when equipped for journey. It is some times ornamented with workings in colored worsted. or silk, or with metal studs. shells. beads, etc. Both kinds of girdles were certainly in use among the Hebrews (2 Kings i :8; Matt. iii :4; Mark i :6; comp. Jer. It is known to all readers of Scripture how often the 'girdle' and the act of 'girding the loins' is mentioned. It seems from 2 Sam. xx :8. that it was usual to wear a knife or poniard in the girdle. This custom is still general, and denotes not any deadly disposi tion, but the want of clasp knives Men of erary vocations replace it by an inkhorn. as was also the case among the Israelites (Ezek. ix:2) (5) The Benish. Over the gown is worn either the short-sleeved gibbeh. which is a long coat of woolen cloth, or the long-sleeved benish. which is also of woolen cloth. and may be worn either over or instead of the other. The hellish is, by reason of its long sleeves (with which the in which the whole dress is girded up about the loins calls to mind the passages of Scripture in which the action of 'girding up the loins' for a journey is mentioned.

(7) Swords. From this it is also seen that travelers usually wear a sword, and the manner in which it is worn is correctly shown. It would also appear that the Jews had swords for such occasional uses (sIatt. xxvi :51 ; Luke xxii :36).

(8) Baring the Arm. The necessity of baring the arm for any kind of exertion, must he evi dent from the manner in which it is encumbered in all the dresses we have produced. This action is often mentioned in Scripture. which alone proves that the arm was in ordinary circumstances similarly encumbered by the dress. For ordinary purposes a hasty tucking up of the sleeve of the right arm suffices; but for a continued action cial contrivances are necessary. The full sleeves of the shirt are sometimes drawn up by means of cords, which pass round each shoulder, and cross behind, where they are tied in a knot. This cus tom is particularly affected by servants and work men, who have constant occasion for baring the arm; but others, whose occasions are more in cidental, and who are, therefore, unprovided with the necessary cords, draw up the sleeves and tie them together behind between the shoulders.

For the dress of women, see \\Tom ; SANDAL.

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