The grapes used in the manufacture of California sherry consist of two varieties, the Bogota and Mission. equal quantities of each being placed in the press. They are allowed to hang upon the vine until about the middle of Nov., when they become dead ripe and slightly shriveled. They are picked about two hours after sunrise, when thoroughly dry, and are taken to the press. The juice which flows from the machine is very and runs into vats Placed in the warmest part of the cellar. Here fermentation takes place as with other wines; but in order to prolong this process as much as possible the juice is stirred three or four times a day. The result of this agitation is to produce a strong, rich, sweet, and heady wine, which is the foundation of future sherry. After five or six months it is racked off into fresh casks, and these arc taken to a hot-house, the roof of which is made of glass, where they are placed upon frames of heavy scantling and exposed to the heat of the sun. The house is kept at a heat from 130'-to 140' F., and in this temperature the wine remains for six or eight months. During the time, the casks are rolled over three of four times every week. This continued exposure to the influence of heat develops in the wine that dry flavor so much admired by connoisseurs of sherry; it also loses no small part of its strength. The wine, when it first comes from the vats in which it is fermented, is one third as strong as brandy, but after it has been exposed for such a length of time to the action of the sun, part of the alcohol has evapor ated and the wine becomes fit for table use. From the hot-house the wine is taken back to the cellar, where it is kept for six or seven months more at a temperature of about 65°, during which time it often happens that a second and milder fermentation takes place. If the wine is intended to be cheap sherry, it is then ready for market. If it is
intended to be a finer and more expensive grade of wine, during the following sum mer it is again placed in. the hot-house, and subjected to the heat of the sun, for the oftener this process of heating and moving the wine is performed—within certain limits —the finer and better does it become, and the higher is the flavor developed.
Another process of manufacturing sherry is much more rapid than that described, although the result may not be so satisfactory to a lover of wine. It is called the Searle process, and is patented. In it the vats containing the wine are connected with pipes and have coils of pile in them. Through these, steam is forced, and produces the neces sary heating of the wine and expulsion of the alcohol. By this process the sherry is ripened much sooner than in any other way.
The wines of the Atlantic states are in great variety, though not very abundant. Nicholas Longworth is remembered as the most active promoter of the manufacture of Catawba wine, which is now widely extended. His vineyard was near Cincinnati, and there are still extensive grape growers in Ohio and the states westward. This grape grows well around lake Erie, and makes a light-colored wine that is highly appreciated. Sherry of fine quality is made from the Cunningham and Hermann grapes. Somegrapes, such as the Scuppernong, do not thrive in the north. but are largely grown in the southern states. At the present time the production of native wines is probably nearly 30,000,000 gallons per year, of which about one third is from California; and the business is advanc ing rapidly.