Sul:fare, Soil, and Climate,—The surface of Peru is divided into three distinct and well-defined tracts or belts, the climates of which are of every variety from tot rid heat to arctic cold, and the productions of which range from the stunted herbage of the high mountain-slopes, to the oranges and citrous, the sugar-canes and cottons, of the luxuriant tropical valleys. These three regions are the Coast, the Sierra, and the Alontaiia.—The Coast is a narrow strip of sandy desert between the base of the western Cordillera and the sea, and extending along the whole length of the country. This tract, varying in breadth from 30 to GO in., slopes to the show with an uneven surface, marked by arid ridges from the Cordillera, and with a rapid descent. It is for the most part a barren waste of sand, traversed, however, by numerous valleys of astonishing fertility. most of which are watered by streams, that have their sources high on the slopes of the Cordillera. Many of the streams are dry during the greater part of the year. Between these valleys extend deserts, which are sometimes DO m. in width. These are perfectly trackless, being covered with a flue, shifting, yellow sand, which is often carried about by the wind in pillars of from 80 to 100 ft. in height. In the coast-region, properly so culled, rain is unknown. This is caused by the coast of Peru being within the region of perpetual s.e. trade-winds. These winds, charged with vapors from the Atlantic, strike upon the c. coast of South America, and traverse that continent obliquely, distributing rains over Brazil. But their vapor is thoroughly condensed by the lofty Cordilleras, and their last particles of moisture are exhausted in powdering the summits of these ranges with snow, after which they fall down upon the coast of Peru, cool and dry. The want of rain, however, is compensated for to some extent by abundant and refreshing dews, which fall during the night. The climate of the coast is modified by the cool winds. In the valleys, the heat, though considerable, is not oppressive. The highest temperature observed at Lima in summer is 85°, the lowest in winter is 61° F.
The Sierra embraces all the mountainous region between the western blse of the maritime Cordillera and the eastern base of the Andes, or the eastern Cordillera. These ranges are, in this country, about 100 in. apart on an average, and have been estimated to cover an area of 200,000 sq.miles. Transverse branches connect the one range with the other, and high plateaux, fertile plains, and deep tropical valleys lie between the lofty outer barriers. The superiority in elevation alternates between the two principal ranges. The e. range, or, as it is generally called, the Andes, has the superiority in height in the southern half of this mountain system. It abuts upon the plain, from the Bolivian frontier, in a majestic mass, surmounted by stupendous pinnacles, rugged in outline, and most frequently rising in splintered needle-like peaks, covered with snow. North of lat. 13' s., however, the western Cordillera assumes the grander character. and preserves it until it crosses the northern frontier. The scenery of the western Cordillera is broader and more massive in character, and its summits less pointed than those of the Andes. Rugged paths, sometimes so narrow as barely to afford footing to the mules which are invariably used in such ascents, lead up its steep sides. Occasionally, from these narrow passes, gaping and apparently bottomless precipices slide perpendicu larly downward from the very feet of the traveler, and the prospect is rendered still more hideous by the distant miff of a torrent, hidden by mists, at the bottom of the ravine. Occasionally, also, the mountain route leads over abysses 500 ft. in depth, across which, by way of bridge, a few poles are thrown, which roll about in an uncomfortable manner under the feet. In traversing these dangerous passes, which line the huge rocks like aerial threads, the traveler often comes upon scenery of the most picturesque and beautiful description. The clefts and sides of the hills, even at altitudes which might he called alpine, are clothed with wild-flowers, many of which, now long cultivated in Britain, have become highly prized among its as garden-plants. Verbenas, lupines, blue and scarlet salvias, fuchsias, calceolarias, and the fragrant heliotrope, add is sense of beauty to t he sense of power which the stupendous scenery imparts. The following are
the most striking and distinctive physical features of the Sierra, beginning from the south: 1. The plain of Titicaca, partly in Peru, and partly in Bolivia, is enclosed between the two main ridges of the Andes, and is said to have an area of 30,000 m.— greater than that of Ireland. In its center is the great lake Titicaca, 12,846 ft. above sea level, or 1600 ft. above the loftiest mountain pass (the col of Mont Cervin) of Europe. The lake is 115 in. long, from 30 to GO m. broad, from 70 to 180 ft. deep, and 400 in. in circumference. Its shape is irregular; it contains many islands, and several peninsulas abut upon its waters. 2. The knot of Cuzec. The mountain-ehains which girdle the plain of Titicaca trend toward the 11.w., and form what is called the knot of Cuzco. The knot comprises G minor mountain-chains, and has an area thrice larger than that of Switzerland, Here the valleys enjoy an Indian climate, and are rich in tropical pro ductions; to the n. and e. of the Knot extend luxuriant tropical forests, while the num berless mountain-slopes are covered with waving crops of wheat, barley, and other cereals, and with potatoes; and higher up, extend pasture-lauds, where the vicuna and alpaca feed. 3. Th- /alley of the Apurimac, 30 nr. in average breadth, and extending n.w. for about 300 miles. This valley is the most populous region of Peru. 4. The Knot of Paseo. From Cuzco proceed two chains toward the n.w.; they unite again in the Knot of Pasco. This Knot contains the table-land of Bombon, 12,300 ft. above sea level; as well as other table-lands at a height of 14,000 ft., the highest in the Andes; otherwise, however, the physical features of the country resemble those of the vicinity of Cuzco. 5. The vale of the river Marailon. This valley, which is upward of C,00 m. in length, is narrow, deep, and neater the equator than any other valley of the Sierra, and consequently, it is the hottest portion of this region; and its vegetation is thoroughly tropical in character. The conformation of the surface of the Sierra is of the most won derful description. After the table-lands of Tibet, those of the Peruvian Andes are the highest in the world; but, unlike those of Tibet, which are mere grassy uplands, the table-lands of Peru are the seat of a comparatively high civilization, and are studded over with towns and villages, perched on heights exceeding in elevation the summits of the ,Jungfrau and the Wetterhorn. Nor are such towns the mere eyries of miners who are tempted to ascend thus high in search of the precious metals; for, even at this eleva tion, the climate is pleasant, and wheat, maize, barley, rye, and potatoes thrive well. The city of Cuzco, situated in a region of rare beauty, and enjoying a temperate climate, is 11,350 ft. above sea-level, or 2,0110 ft. higher than the great St. Bernard. The climate of the Sierra, however, is not always so charming. In general terms, it may be des cribed as mild and variable, with moderate rains. In the district of Paucartambo, min falls 300 days in the year. A country, however, of such an uneven surface, cf snow covered peaks and tropical Valleys,embraces every variety of climate. In all the lower regions of the country the climate is warm, but healthy; in the uplands, and on the highest plateaux, it is often inclement. Violent storms beat upon the plain of Titicaca; and terrific temptests, accompanied with thunder and lightening, roll frequently around the table-lands of Pasco (q.v.); where, indeed, the climate is so cold, that but for the mines, which have attracted hither a numerous population, this region might have remained uninhabited. At•the height of 9,C00 ft. above sea-level, the mean temperature is 60' Fahr., and the variation throughout the year is not great. The highest peaks of the country reach to upward of 22.000 ft., and many peaks in both ranges are from 17,000 to 20,000 ft. high. In the western Cordillera, and in the s. of the country. are 4 volcanoes—Candarave, 'Chinas, ()mate, and Arequipa. The soil of the Sierra is of great variety; but wherever it is cultivated, it is productive.