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Hebrides

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HEBRIDES, the name applied' in a general sense to all the islands on the w. coast of Scotland. They have been variously classified; but the most natural division seems to be into the Outer and Inner Hebrides. To the Outer belong Lewis, with Harris, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Barra, Coll, and 'tiree. The remote isle of St. Kilda might be associated with this external series. The principal of the Inner islands are Skye, Mull, Iona, Staffa, Ulva, Lismore, Kerrera, Easdale, Colonsay, Jura, and Islay. Bute, the Cumbraes, and Arran, though lying in the firth of Clyde, are usually classed with the Hebrides. The whole are popularly spoken of as the Western isles, the term Hebrides being confined chiefly to literature.

The total number of the Hebrides is about 490 (which number includes every islet that affords sufficient pasturage to support one sheep), but of these not more than 120 are inhabited. The entire area is not accurately known, but has been estimated at upwards of 3,000 square miles, and the population, which is not increasing, was in 1871 shout 100,000. Of the whole surface only about 200,000 acres are arable, the rest is in pas ture-land of little value, and in morasses, peat-mosses, lakes, and barren sands and rocks. The scenery of Skye is grand and picturesque; Mull is noted for its lofty mountains, Jura for its peaks, and Arran for its high rugged hills. Islay and Bute are comparatively level and arable. Staffa is remarkable for its basaltic columns and great cavern. Iona derives interest from its ruins and historical associations. Politically, all the Hebridean isles are attached to Scotland, in the civil and ecclesiastical systems of which they par ticipate. The counties among which they are distributed are those of Ross, Inverness. Argyle, and Bute. The principal Hebridean towns are Stornoway and Lewis, Portreo in Skye, Tobermory in Mull, and Rothesay in Bute. Though situated on the main land of Argyle, Oban is ' usually considered a town of the Hebrides, and along with Rothesay, is best known to tourists.

Enjoying the benefit of the Gulf stream (q.v.), the climate of the Hebrides is pecu liarly mild. Snow seldom' lies long on the sea-shores or low grounds, and in sheltered spots tender plants are not nipped by winter frosts. But if genial the climate is also humid. Drizzling rains are frequOnt, and often envelop the island:4, or at least shroud the higher Monntains from qight. With these draWbackS, the elfinate is pleaszalt and healthful, and is recommended for certain classes of invalids. Partaking of the old Celtic character, the humbler class of natives for the most part speak Gaelic, but latterly, through educational efforts and otherwise, English has made extensive progress. As in the mainland portion of the Highlands, many large estates have passed from old fami lies of note into the hands of opulent modern proprietors, by whom extensive improve ments have been effected. The greatest improvement of all, however, and which deserves to be spoken of as the parent of all others, has been the work of a Glasgow firm, David Hutcheson & Co., by whom has been established an extraordinary system of steam-navigation in connection with the Hebrides calculated to develop the resources of the islands, and bring them, with the neighboring coast, within the sphere of trade and the reach of tourists. Originated by David Hutcheson, a person of singular energy anti

capacious views, the system of Hebridean steatners embraces several distinct lines of route in connection with Glasgow; and opening up remote tracts formerly reached only with extreme difficulty, may be said to he gradually altering the character of, and giving a new value to, the western Highlands and islands.

The Hebrides are the Ebuthe of Ptolemy, the Ileb"tides (of which the name Hebrides is merely a corruption, said to be the consequence of a misprint in a Parisian printing office) of Pliny, and the Sudreyjar (Southern Islands, as distinguished from Orknegjar, Northern Islands), of the Norwegians. The latter epithet was Latinized into Sodoren ses, and is still retained in the title "Bishop of Sodor and Nan." The history of these islands forms an.interesting episode in that of Scotland. According to the general account, the Hebrides were first colonized in the beginning of the 9th c. by emigrants from Norway, who had fled from the iron rule of Harald Haarfager (863-036); they naturally settled in the greatest numbers on the first land that was reached, viz., the Shetland and Orkney Isles and Outer Hebrides; but some wandered as far s. as the Isle of Man, colonizing as they went. The consequence of this was the total absorption of the Celtic into the Norse element in the northern islands, while southward the Celtic element asserted the predominance. This colony after a time threw off swarms, which settled on the n. and w. coasts of Scotland, Cumberland, and Westmoreland, and in all probability founded the Norwegian kingdoms of Dublin, Waterford, and Limerick; it also sent a colony to Iceland in 874. At last the settlers became so powerful as to be a source of annoyance to the mother-country, whereupon Harald Haarfager, about 870 A.D., fitted out a great expedition, and subdued the Hebrides and Man. They remained subject to Norway till 1266, three years after the battle of Largs, and were then trans ferred to Scotland. In 1346 one of the chiefs, named Macdonald, reduced the whole under his authority, and took the title of "Lord of the Isles;" but in 1540 they were finally annexed to the Scottish crown by James V. The Hebrides were ecclesiastically dependent on Norway as late as 1374, and prof. Munch argues that this relation lasted till 1472, when St. Andrews was made the scat of a metropolitan. The influx of the Norsemen has had here, as elsewhere, great influence over the nomenclature; many places mid islands having lost their original Celtic designations.

The Hebrides have, from time to time, been visited by learned inquirers, among whom may be named Martin, sir Joseph Banks, Pennant. Dr. Samuel Johnson, and Dr. John Macculloch, who wrote a geological account of the islands (2 vols. 8vo. with a volume of plates, 4to. 1819). Scott's Lord of the Isles contributed materially to attach a popular interest to these islands, which, by the aid of Hutcheson's steam-fleet, are now within the compass of summer pleasure traveling. The more important islands of the Hebrides are described in separate articles. For the early history of the Hebrides con sult Citronlea Requra llannice et hisularum, edited from the INIS. in the British museum, by P. A. Munch, prof. of history in the university of Christiania (Christiania, 1860).