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Button

buttons, patterns, material, pearl and manufacture

BUTTON, a small circular disk or knob of mother of pearl, horn, metal, or other material, with a shank or perfora tions through its center for attachment to an object, and made to fit into a hole formed in another one for its reception, the two fastening the objects together. Its chief use is to unite portions of a dress together. The ancient method of fastening dresses was by means of pins, brooches, buckles and tie-strings. But tons of brass are found on dresses of the 16th century. Gilt buttons were first made in 1768, and those of papier mache in 1778.

Buttons of vegetable ivory are now used universally. The palm fruit which yields it is called corozo nut. It is not unlike true ivory but softer, and is easily turned and dyed. These buttons are often mottled with some stain to suit the common patterns of cloth. Mother of pearl buttons are formed of the beau tiful substance of which the large flat shell of the pearl oyster consists, and this has long been a favorite material for buttons. Small cylinders are first cut out of the shells with a tubular saw, These are then split into discs, which are shaped by a steel tool, drilled with holes, and finally polished with rotten stone and soft soap, or by a more recent method with ground charcoal and tur pentine. Shirt studs as well as flat and globular buttons with metal shanks are also made of this substance.

Among other animal substances used for buttons are ivory, bone, horn, and hoof. There are many kinds of composi tion buttons. Glass buttons are made

in great variety. Along with other va rieties, some beautiful glass buttons arc made in Bohemia, either partly or wholly of aventurine glass; and of this gold spangled material, artistically inwrought with other colors, studs and solitaires still more remarkable for their beauty and minute patterns are made at Venice.

Porcelain buttons were formerly nearly all of French manufacture, but they are now made principally at Prague. Some are plain and others are painted or printed with patterns. More or less expensive buttons are made of ornamental stone, such as agate, jasper, and marble. Occasionally they are formed of amber, jade, or of still more costly materials, as pearls and gems. In recent years, improved methods and ma chines have been introduced for the shaping as well as for the polishing and finishing of bone, corozo, and wood but tons. Machinery is now used also for the manufacture of composition buttons, and there are machines for performing auto matically all the operations in manu facturing covered buttons. In England, Birmingham is the seat of the button trade, which, however, is much more largely developed in France and in Ger many, where the manufacture of buttons has made great strides in recent years. In the United States, buttons are princi pally made in New York and Philadel phia, but there are also numerous estab lishments in other localities.