Champagnes are effervescing wines, so called from the province in France where they were first manufactured. In addition to being made from the finest grapes, and fermented and handled with the greatest care, champagnes usually have added to them a curie made from sugar, water, cordials and the like (generally each maker has his secret for mula), and subjected, in strong bottles, to a final fermentation in which the gas formed is absorbed under great pressure, so that on opening the bottle a marked effervescence results. They are classed as sweet, dry and extra dry.
Clarets are dry red wines, originating in the region of Bordeaux, while Sauternes are dry white wines. The Rhine wines are dry and usually white, although sometimes red. Sherries, named from Xeres, Spain, are "fortified" wines ; that is, they have added to them some alcohol in excess of that produced by fermentation in order to prevent deterioration. This treatment is not uncommon with sweet wines.
The production of cider is fundamentally like that of wine, the fermentation being of the same character. Cider-making, however, is not so extensively a commercial enterprise as is wine making. A certain amount of bottled cider, "cham pagne cider," and the like, is to be found in the market, however.
In cider-making, much depends on the character of the fruit used. Not all kinds of apples are equally well adapted to cider-making. Varieties like the russet and crab, which are apparently high in tannins, appear to be best adapted for this purpose. Many other varieties will produce excel lent cider, however.
For the preparation of good cider, the fruit should be mature, clean and free from bruises or decayed spots. These spots always contain cells of molds which may exert an unfavorable influence on the fermentation or by their own fermentative action give rise to undesirable products. Accord ing to some authorities, the fruit should be allowed to remain on the trees as long as possible, and then piled up for a sufficient time to allow a sweating process to take place. This is supposed to cause uniformity and completeness of ripening.
The fruit is next ground or crushed and the pulp reduced to a fine state of division, in order that the cells may give up their burdens of saccharine juice. Pressure is then applied to this mass of pomace, as it is called, and the more or less colored sweet cider or juice is thus secured.
The color depends to a great extent on the time during which the pulp is exposed to the air before pressing, as certain components of the fruit become oxidized through the agency of oxidase enzymes in the cells, and turn brownish in color.
The pressing was formerly, and in some parts of the country still is accomplished with alternating layers of pomace and straw to give firmness to the "cheese," and to allow a more ready exit for the juice. Racks for holding the pomace, and press cloths of a fairly coarse material are now more generally used, and are to be pre ferred, as the straw is likely to impart a musty taste to the cider.
After pressing out the sweet cider, it is gener ally allowed to undergo a spontaneous fermentation in a moderately cool place. In domestic operations the fermentation is carried out in barrels. After the first violent fermentation is over, the barrels may be tightly bunged and the slight secondary fermentation allowed to take place without further attention, except to keep the temperature fairly low. If the cider is to be bottled, it should be done after the primary fermentation is at an end, but before the secondary fermentation is com plete, so that some of the carbon dioxid may be retained by the cider. "Champagne cider" is pre pared in this way, with the addition of some brandy and more sugar, so that the secondary fermentation may be considerable in amount.
Apple juice generally contains 10 to 14 per cent of sugar. If less than 10 per cent is present, a cider with good keeping quality cannot generally be made, unless, of course, the cider be " fortified." The cider should be protected from direct con tact with air, otherwise acetic fermentation will take place and vinegar will result.
Sometimes for the preparation of specially fine cider, sugar and raisins are added, and the solution clarified by isinglass or catechu, in order that the color may not be changed on exposure to air.
Cider, like wine, is subject to a number of troubles or " diseases" caused by invading or undesirable organisms, due oftentimes to poor fruit and uncleanly conditions. As in wine-making, to obtain a really excellent product requires good raw material and scrupulous care and attention to cleanliness.