After passing some other defiles, similar in a great measure to that which we have so amply described, our travellers arrived at the Paramo, or desert of Chimbo razo, where, though exempted from the fatigues and dangers of the preceding days, they were exposed to new hardships, occasioned by the severity of the cold, and the violence of the winds. During the remaining part of the journey, no incident occurred which deserves particular notice. They continued for several days to traverse those bleak and barren plains, keeping the mountain Chimborazo always on their left, and on the 29th of the month arrived at Quito.
Besides this route, which we have so fully described, there are several other roads which lead to the plain of Quito. Humboldt approached it from the north by Popayan and Pasto ; while Condamine, leaving his com panions at the river of the Emeralds, proceeded south east, and arrived at Quito, by crossing the northern flank of the mountain Pinchineha. But from whatever quarter the traveller approaches this extensive plain, its first ap pearance never fails to strike him with a pleasing asto nishment. As I ascended, says Condamine, the woods began to open, and I soon beheld nothing around me but extensive plains of sand, and above them the naked rocks, which form the summit of Pinchincha. Upon arriving at the highest part of this barren ridge, I was seized with astonishment, mixed with admiration, at the sight of a long valley, about 16 or 18 miles broad, in tersected by numerous rivulets, hastening in every di rection to unite into one large stream, which waters the centre of the valley. I saw, as far as my sight could extend, cultivated fields, diversified with plains and meadows ; green hills, villages and hamlets, surrounded by hedges and gardens ; and in the back ground of the picture, the city of Quito, closing the smiling land scape; I thought myself transported into one of our finest provinces in France. As I descended, the climate changed, passing gradually from extreme cold to the temperature of one of the finest days in May.
Perhaps there is no circumstance in the first aspect of this valley, which contributes so much to the sur prise and delight of the traveller, as the busy animated scene which it represents, thus forming a pleasing contrast to the silence and solitude of the country through which he has passed. The whole extent of the plain seems covered with towns and villages, of a sur prising neatness. The houses are not like those which he had hitherto seen, composed of reeds, but built some times of stone, or more frequently of a kind of brick, which they dry in the shade. Each of the towns and
villages has a large square in the centre ; on one side of which a church is usually placed. From this square the streets or roads proceed in regular straight lines, to a considerable distance into the country, frequently intersecting one another at right angles, and giving to the whole the appearance of a large garden. The cli mate of this plain, notwithstanding its amazing height above the level of the sea, is represented as warm and agreeable, and peculiarly favourable to the growth of all the productions of the middle regions of the tempe rate zone. It would appear, however, from an observa tion of Humboldt, that some considerable alteration in this respect has occurred of late years. The great earthquake of February 1797, says this traveller, which agitated the whole province, and destroyed in a moment from 35 to 40 thousand people, has also been fatal to the survivors. It has so changed the temperature of the air, that the thermometer generally stands at from 4° to 10° of Reaumur; while Bouguer always observed it at 15° or 16°.
In order to convey to our readers a more complete idea of this interesting portion of the Andes, it will be necessary to notice individually some of the more re markable mountains which form the side walls of this singular plain. The first mountain of the western ridge that claims particular attention, is Pinchincha, which overhangs the town of Quito on the north. By tracing a line south from this point, we discover the Ilinissa ; and, beyond it, at a still greater distance, the lofty mountain of Chimborazo. These three mountains con stitute the principal summits of the western range, be tween which occur several mountains of less celebrity, though by no means inferior in point of magnitude. Of these the most important are Carguayraso, on the north of Chimborazo ; and Corazon, midway between Quito and Ilinissa. The eastern range contains the following remarkable summits, Cayamburo, Antesana, Catopaxi, Tunguragua, Altair, and Sangai Cayamburo lies north east from Quito about 30 miles distant, and Antesana to the south-east, nearly at the same distance. Here the plain attains its greatest breadth. From Antesana, the mountains incline to the west, till they join Catopaxi, which appears directly east from Ilinissa. After this, the mountains again retire, and the valley continues open for the space of 50 miles, when the neighbouring summits of Chimborazo and Tunguragua again cause it to contract. From this point the ridge declines a little to the east, and presents the remarkable summits of Altair and Sangai.