Athens

remains, columns, temple, site, remain, entire, called and mosque

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From the Propylea, we enter into the Parthenon, that grand display of Athenian magnificence. Eight columns of the eastern front, and several of the la teral porticos, are still standing. Of the frontispiece, which represented the contest of Neptune and Miner. va for Athens, nothing remains, but the head of a sea-horse, and the figures of two women, whose heads are wanting ; but these slender specimens display ad mirable truth and beauty. The combat of the Cen taurs and the Lapithm is in better preservation. Of all the statues with which it was enriched, that of Adrian alone remains." The inside is now converted into a mosque. Upon the whole, this edifice, muti. lated as it is, retains still an air inexpressible gran deur.

There are considerable remains also of the Erec theum, particularly those beautiful female figures, called Caryatides, which support, instead of columns, two of thek porticos.

Of the two theatres, there remains only so much of the outer walls, as is sufficient to shew their site, and their immense magnitude. The area is now ploughed, and produces corn.

Having thus surveyed the Acropolis, we shall now enter within the town, which does not, however, pre sent any monuments of equal magnitude. Near a church called Great St Mary, • are three exquisite Corinthian columns, supporting an architrave. This passed originally for the temple of Jupiter Olympius ; an idea which Stuart has clearly proved to be er roneous. He supposes it to be a remnant of the Precile.

The Tower of the Winds, by Andronicus Cyr rhestes, is still entire. Its figure is octagon, and on each of the sides is carved, in relief, a representation of one of the principal winds. The sculpture is ad mirable. This building owes its preservation to its having become the mosque of an order of Dervises.

Among the monuments of distinguished men, of which a street called the Tripods was almost entire ly composed, one only remains, the choragic monu ment of Lysicrates. It consists of a basement, cir cular colonnade, and cupola. The order is Corin thian. The architecture and sculpture are exquisite. It was supposed by Wheeler to be the Lantern of Demosthenes, where that orator retired to study ; but thiets clearly refuted by Stuart.

. Of the splendid Gymnasium erected by Ptolemy, a few black and ruined walls present the only traces.

On going without the city, our attention is immedi ately attracted by the sublime ruins of the temple of Jupiter Olympius. Sixteen columns only remain of

one hundred and twenty. Wheeler, in 1676, found seventeen ; but a little before Chandler's visit in 1765, one had been overturned for the building of a mosque. Of the statues which, in such numbers, enriched this edifice, none now remain. ' Some only of the pedestals and inscriptions are found scattered in Efferent quarters, and often half buried in the earth.

The temple of Theseus is still nearly entire, except the roof, which is modern. The sculptures on the outside are almost entirely defaced, but those which adorn the friezes on the inside, are in better:preser vation. They represent the exploits of that hero. His combat with a Centaur is particularly distin guiOled.

Of places which derive their interest from the scenes which were acted in them, considerable re mains. may also be observed. In the hill of Arco. pagus, where sat that famous tribunal, we may still discover, the steps cut in, the rock, by which it was ascended ; the seats of the judges ; and opposite to them, those of the accuser and accused. This hill is now a burying-place for the Turks, and is covered, with their tombs.

The Pnys, or place for the assembly of the peo ple, which lies near the•Areopagus, is still nearly in its original condition. In it are still seen the pulpit for the orators cut out in the rock ; the scats of the secretaries, who drew up the decrees ; and, in the two angles, those of the officers, who imposed •silence, and published the result of the public deliberations. Niches are also seen, where were placed,the•offerings of those who obtained from the people either favour or acquittal. Awful sensations are inspired by the .view ,of this once grand and busy scene, whence is sued those schemes, which changed so often the face of the ancient world.

We may still trace the area of the Stadium, built by .Herodes Atticus entirely of. white marble, and on which the Athenian youth•were employed in those gymnastic exercises so much valued by the Greeks. The site of the Lyceum is discoverable by a number of loose stones scattered about. A modern house and. garden now cover the site •of the Academy. Within its precincts the walks of the Peripatetics may traced ; and many olive trees remain, of a most venerable antiquity.

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