CADIZ, a city and sea-port of Spain, in the kingdom of Andalusia, is supposed to have been founded by the Phanicians ; who, being attracted by its commodious harbour and situation for commerce, first settled a colony here, and gave it the name of Gadis, or Gadira. It was afterwards incorporated with the Roman empire, and was honoured by that people with the title of illuniciiiiunz. Upon the decline and dissolution of that power, it fell into the hands of the Saracens, who held it, with other parts of Spain, till near the middle of the 13th century, when it was recovered by the Spaniards, and when these intruders were expelled from the kingdom of Andalusia. In 1396, it was taken and plundered by the English un der the Earl of Essex ; anti the attempt was repeated by the Duke of Ormond in 1702, but alter landing his troops he found it impracticable, and returned. During the dreadful earthquake which demolished Lisbon, Novem ber 1st, 1755, the sea rising in an extraordinary manner, overflowed the country about Cadiz to a great extent, and by its leaving behind it wrecks, which appeared to have belonged ton temple, the tradition that the ancient city. of Cadiz was formerly swallowed up by the ocean, was in some degree confirmed ; and it is still said, that in very calm weather, NS hen the tide is low, the ruins of the old houses, and the remains of the temple of Ilercules,• may sometimes be discerned under the water. Our Retie f in this tradition is also considerably strengthened the opinion of some accurate observers, who that while the sea without the straits of Gibraltar has enemached upon the land, it has receded proportionally on the coast of Spain withiu the straits, especially at Ma laga and Carthagena.
The present city stands upon a tongue of land, pro jecting into the sea, and is strongly fortified both by art and nature. A steep and almost inaccessible shore defends it on the south ; sand-banks and sunk rocks pre vent every approach on the north ; and uu the south-east, where it communicates with the continent, it is protect ed by strong and regular bastions and out-works. Of its five gates, only one opens towards the land ; which from the connecting causeway leads through the isle of Leon, and crosses the river Santi Petri by the bridge of Suazo. The streets of this city are regularly built, but rather crowded and narrow. They arc, however, well paved, kept remarkably clean, and well lighted at night. The houses are neat, simple, and agreeable, with projecting roofs, made of Genoa slate, which gives rather a sombre appearance to the streets, but which affords a kind of shade in summer. On the north-east side, which looks towards port St Mary, and which constitutes the most beautiful part of the city, the houses are lofty, and orna mented with painted balconies ; and in front is a wide parade, well-gravelled, and planted with trees, which communicates with the sea-road. The principal square, which is that of St Antonio, is very handsome. It has stone posts placed all round the centre, connected by an iron chain, to keep off the carriages. The ramparts form the Prado of Cadiz ; and here, indeed, the walk is de lightful, commanding on one side a prospect of the bay and the opposite shores, with various small towns, vil lages and forts; and on the othcr, the unbounded view of the Atlantic, on which numerous vessels are daily seen making for other ports, and bound either from or up the Mediterranean. Besides the ramparts, they have
another promenade, called the Alameda, which runs by the sea, on the side of the bay, towards the west. It has three large handsome walks, planted with elms and pop lars, and adorned with elegant marble scats. It is also furnished with coffee-houses, is well lighted at night, and very much frequented. Among the public buildings, the new cathedral, when finished, will be far the most conspicuous ; and if executed according to the plan which it now displays, will be one of the most magnificent structures ill Spain. But there is no appearance, at pre sent, of its being soon brought to such a conclusion. It is, however, defective both in elegance and simplicity, and will never be a handsome building. The domes are lofty, and the pillars are, in general, well proportioned, and of the Corinthian order ; but it is encumbered with a multiplicity of useless decorations, and though yet un finished and full of rubbish, the niches in the walls are already filled with marble statues of saints and angels. which have been placed there with a childish eagerness. The foundation was laid about thirty years ago, and it is computed that the whole will cost 1,500,000 crowns. The old cathedral is chiefly remarkable for its pictures. most of which are copies ; and its treasures, which con sist of gems, many large silver candlesticks and lamps, and three custodial, one of which is constructed of the finest silver, weighing 51 arobas, and another of solid gold. The church of the capuchins,* the church of the oratory, and also some of the convents, contain some fine paintings by Murillo and other masters. The best col lections of pictures, however, are to be found in the pos session of private individuals. The house of Don Al phonso Ocruley contains about two hundred, almost all originals, by Paul Vermere, Rubens, Vandyke, Piombo, Velasquez Cano, Ribalta, and the school of Breughel, Ste. ; and in the house of Don Josef Martinez, is to be found a superb collection of the works of Ti tian, Leonarda da Vinci, Velasquez, Murillo, Jules, Ri bera, Herrera, Zurbaran, Jordan, Trevisani, Rosa, Vac caro, and many other painters of the Spanish school. The asylum, or general work-house, is a handsome building, with Doric columns, and presents a front of 260 feet. It has several courts ; and round the principal one is a gallery with sixteen columns of the Doric order. This asylum maintains above 800 paupers of every na tion, age, or sex, who are instructed and employed in useful arts. The boys are employed in manufacturing silk, linen, cotton, and printed calicoes ; the girls in spin ning, in needle-work, and in household business ; and the aged and infirm work according to their abilities and strength. This establishment was greatly improved by Count O'Reilly in 1785, but it again degenerated after his resignation. The other charitable institutions are ; the royal military hospital, which accommodates 80 students, who are maintained and educated at the king's expence ; two hospitals for the sick, one set apart for each sex ; and an asylum for 47 widows, founded by a Turkish merchant.