The Region(' Desrrta, or Upper Zone of Etna, reckon ing from the total disappearance of vegetation to the verge of the great crate!, includes a space of about 8 or to miles. The surface of this zone is for the most part flat and even, presenting a dreary expanse of snow and ice. In the midst of this desert, the lofty summit of the mountain is descried at a distance, rearing its tremen dous head above the surrounding snows, and vomiting out torrents of smoke.
The traveller has now passed over twenty miles of ascent; but the most fatiguing and hazardous part of his journey still remains. The gusts of wind common to all elevated situations, are remarkable for their vio lence on the higher regions of Etna. The traveller, after struggling long against the chilling blasts, is often obliged to lie down quite exhausted with fatigue ; but is instantly roused to exertion, by reflecting upon the fatal effects of resting in so inclement a situation. In the commencement of his journey through this snowy desert, while the ascent is gradual, and while the snow still feels the softening effects of the sun's rays, he is able to walk with tolerable case and security ; in a little time, however, the surface becomes hardened to such a degree, as to appear one continued sheet of ice. On some occasions, his progress is interrupted by currents of melted snow, produced by some accidental increase of temperature in particular parts of the mountain. In consequence of this partial heating of the surface, pools of water are often formed, which add considerably to the hazards of the journey. As lie approaches the great crater, new difficulties occur : The sand and ashes which were at first thinly spread over the surface of the hard ened snow, now cover it to a considerable depth ; and are at the same time so loose, as to endanger the tra veller's being swallowed up at every step of his progress. But the most formidable impedi•mt to the progress c,f adventurers, in this perilous journey, arises from the sulphureous exhalations which are continually emitted from the pores of the mountain, and which irritate the lungs to such a degree as to produce incessant cough ing, and sometimes even threaten suffocation. Nor is it by the exhalations from the sides of the mountain merely that the traveller is annoyed, the thick clouds of smoke which continually issue from the mouth of the volcano, sometimes roll down its sides, and involve him in a destructive atmosphere. To add to the horrors of the scene, he is at every instant alarmed by terrific sounds, which seem to come from the centre of the mountain.
M. Houel compares this noise to a discharge of cannon in the wide abyss, which being reflected from various caverns, produces reverberations of the most alarming kind. If any thing be still wanting to add to the diffi culties and dangers of the journey, it is only necessary to observe, that it is commonly performed during the night. After taking a short repast, and slumbering for a little on his bed of leaves, the traveller usually sets out from the Grotto of the Goats a little before midnight, in order that he may reach the summit of the mountain before sunrise. About an hour before dawn, he arrives at the ruins of an ancient structure, commonly called the Philosopher's Tower. This is supposed by some to have been built by the philosopher Empedocles for his own accommodation, when studying the nature of mount /Etna ; by others it is supposed to be the ruins of a tem ple of Vulcan ; while some imagine it to have been a watch-tower built by the Normans. M. Houel is of opi nion, that it is a modern structure ; neither the mate rials of which it consists, nor the mode of architecture, bearing any resemblance to those of the Greeks or Ro mans. Here the traveller, sheltered from the fury of the blasts, sits down to recruit his exhausted strength, and finds leisure to examine the objects around him. The forests below still appear like a black gulf encompass ing the mountain. The unclouded sky is faintly irra diated; and the immense vault of the heavens appears before him in awful majesty and splendour. The num ber of the stars seem increased, and their light appears brighter than usual. The milky way, says Brydone, like a pure flame, shoots across the heavens ; and the meteors, called falling stars, seem as much elevated above us, as when seen from the plain.
Warned by the first rays of the dawn, the traveller hastily bids adieu to the Philosopher's Tower ; and, pro ceeding on his journey to the summit, soon arrives at the foot of the great crater. This is a hill of an exact conical figure, and rises equally on all sides. It is com posed solely of ashes and other burnt materials, thrown out from the mouth of the crater. Its circumference, According to Brvdone, is not less than 10 miles ; and its perpendicular height, according to sir William Hamil ton, is about of a mile. This conical hill, if we credit the accounts of the people of Catania, is but a recent production. Before the year 1730, the mountain termi nated in an extensive plain, in the centre of which ap peared an immense opening, constituting the mouth of the great gulf.