The English and French colonists follow a different method from the preceding, in gathering their coffee. As soon as the fruit is of a deep red colour, it is reckon ed to be ready for being gathered. A large linen bag, kept open by means of a hoop round its mouth, is sus pended to the neck of the negroes, who pull the berries with their hands, and, after filling the bag, empty it into a large basket. A single negro can easily collect three bushels in a day. As the berries do net ripen together, they are collected at three different gathe rings. One thousand pounds of good coffee is produced from one hundred bushels of cherries just from the tree. The coffee berries may now be dried in two different ways. The first method is to place them in the sun in layers of four inches thick, on inclined platforms, or sloping terra ces. In a few clays, the pulp is discharged by fermenta tion, and in about three weeks the coffee is completely dry. The skin of the berries already broken, is re moved by mills, or in wooden mortars. The second method is to separate the grain from the pulp at once by means of a mill, and the grains are then left to soak in water 24 hours. They are afterwards placed in the sun to be completely dried. The grains of coffee are next stripped of the pellicle, or parchment as it is call ed, by means of appropriate mills, and it is afterwards winnowed, and mingled with the grindings and dust of the parchment, in which state it is put into bags for sale.
Dr Titford• is of opinion, that coffee should be sent home in the whole berry, without being divested of its pulp. By this means, he asserts that it will retain its peculiar flavour, and will not imbibe any of the bad fla vour of sugar, rum, pimento, &Lc. with which it is ge nerally shipped.
On the Preparation of Coffee.
As there is perhaps no process which is so little un derstood, and so uncertain in its results, as that of making coffee, we had determined to treat this branch of the subject at considerable length, and had collected mate rials for giving a full account of the various approved methods, which have been founded either on theory or experience ; but upon examining the method which has been recently published b• Count Rumford in his 18th Essay, we were so much satisfied with its superiority to every other, from the numerous experiments and trials which the Count has made on the subject, that we have no hesitation in giving it as the only method which is worthy of being preserved.
As it is of the utmost importance that every part of the process should be carefully and scrupulously follow ed, we have preserved as much as possible the very words of the Count.
" Great care must be taken not to roast coffee too much. As soon as it has acquired a deep cinnamon co lour, it should be taken from the fire and cooled : other wise much of its aromatic flavour will be dissipated, and its taste will become disagreeably bitter.
In some parts of Italy, coffee is roasted in a thin Flo rence flask, slightly closed by a loose cork, and held over clear burning coals with continual agitation. No vapour issues from the coffee sufficient to prevent the progress of its roasting from being clearly seen. The Count has adopted this process, by using a thin globular vessel of glass, with a long neck, which he closes, when charged, with a long cork, having a small slit on one side, to allow the escape of the vapours, and projecting far enough out of the neck to be used as a handle to turn the vessel round, while exposed to the heat of a chafing dish of coals. This vessel is laid horizontally, and is supported by its neck so as to be easily turned round ; which may be done without the least danger, however near the coals, provided the glass be thin, and kept con stantly turned.
In order that the coffee may be perfectly good, and very high flavoured, not more than half a pound of the grain should be roasted at once ; for when the quantity :s greater, it becomes impossible to regulate the heat so as to be quite certain of a good result. The progress of the operation, and the moment most proper to put an end to it, may be judged and determined with great certainty, not only by the changes which take place in the colour of the grain, but also by the peculiar fragrance which will first begin to be diffused by it when it is nearly roasted enough.
If coffee in powder be not defended from the air, it soon loses its flavour, and becomes of little value ; and the liquor is never in such high perfection as when the coffee is made immediately after the grain is roasted.
This fact is well known to those who are accustomed to coffee in countries where the use of it is not controlled by the laws ; and if a government be seriously disposed to encourage the use of coffee, the Count considers it as indispensable that individuals should be permitted to roast it in their own houses. But as the roasting and grind ing of coffee takes up considerable time, the author de scribes a contrivance of a canister to keep it in, which has a double cover. This vessel is a cylinder of tin, hav ing a sliding piston within, of the same material, formed like the cover of a box, but having several slits in its sides, by which they are sprung outwards, and cause it to retain its place in the cylinder with considerable force. The piston, being pressed down upon the coffee, retains it and defends it from the air, while the same object is more completely secured by a common well fitted cover at top. It may be here remarked—that this kind of can ister has the advantage of confining the article without including any air in the same space, except what may be diffused between the particles ;—but that, with this exception, a well-corked bottle or other fit vessel may answer the same purpose.