There are few squares in this city, considering its magnitude ; and of these, the principal are, Georges Square, in the Old Town, which measures 665 feet by 510 ; and St Andrew's and Charlotte Square in the New Town. There are several, however, such as St James's, St Patrick's, and Nicholson's square, of smaller dimen sions; but the inequality of the ground, the width of the streets, and the salubrity of the atmosphere, render the want of squares a less sensible defect. From many points of the city, the most varied and delightful pro spect is commanded, either in ranges of hills, distant mountains, or verdant fields, bounded by a beautiful river, which is traversed by numerous vessels.
Almost the whole city is built of fair !limn store, from inexhaustible quarries in the neighbourhood ; and the houses are covered with slates. The New Town is invariably so ; and the front of all the buildings in the principal and cross streets are fenced with neat iron mill ing. Here they are less commodious than the exterior would indicate; but the high price of ground-rent obli ges the architect to seek that accommodation in altitude which would be more conveniently disposed in surface. Thus two stories arc sometimes sunk below the level of the street. Ground•rehts are in many places 10/., 201., or even nearly 30/., hir the site of the house and a small plot behind it; and the price of the best houses is 20001., 3000/., or 40001. The yearly lent of such is from Ion/. to 1601. or more. In the Old Town, on the other hand, the houses being rot. the most part crowded together, their inhabitants are deprived of many conveniences found in more modern edifices. Ft cquently they rise to a great height, being live, six, or seven stories from the street ; and there are even instances of sonic houses consisting, on one side, of eleven or fourteen sto ries, each of which is inhabited by a different family. But this uncommon structure is owing to the sudden de clivity of the bank on which they arc founded.
Edinburgh is a remarkably beautiful city, not only from its situation, but from the width of the streets, pat ticularly of the modern part, the regularity of architec ture, and the colour of the stone employed in the build ings. Nor is its general appearance less singular, from lofty edifices on a high ridge, overlooking those which occupy the lower grounds ; from the two bridges, with out water to either ; and the immense mound connecting the different divisions of the city. The magnitude of this may truly be the subject of admiration, especially considering the few years in v hich it has been produced. The Earthen Mound is 960 feet in length, 133 feet broad at the first opening to the north in the wall travers ing it ; and, at the same place, about 100 in perpendicular height, but somewhat more at the opposite extremity. It is composed almost entirely of the rubbish excavated from the foundation of the houses in the New-Town, since the year 1783. An enormous quantity of earth has sunk into the marsh below, and the whole is still yield ing, from the accumulated pressure.
The most striking object, on approaching this city, is the Castle, perched on a lofty isolated rock, elevated on three sides from a level plain. Part of it, especially on the north, is absolutely perpendicular, or somewhat over hanging the base, to the height of 150 or 200 feet ; but to render the rest still more inaccessible, we read, that the governor who held it for the adherents of AIary, took pains to " pare away the green grass" that had taken a slender root in the fissures of the rock. Of old, the castle was certainly a place of great strength, and it has stood many tedious sieges; but, being commanded by ground within the range of artillery, its importance in modern warfare is much diminished. Etymologists have
found equal difficulty in the derivation of Castrunz vim, the Maiden Castle, or Edinburgh ; but it seems more generally admitted to have been from Edwin, the Northumbrian potentate, in the seventh century ; and that the town, gradually seeking protection under its walls, thence received the name of Edwinesburg, by which it was anciently known. The castle is now separated from the city by a vacant regular acclivity, 350 feet long, and nearly as broad, which has lately been supported by a strong wall, sunk several feet below the level. Its en trance is by a drawbridge, which is raised every night, over a wide dry ditch, and guarded by strong palisades without, where the heaviest ordnance on the batteries may be pointed. Different gates within open into a wind ing way, which ascends to various edifices, for stores, barracks, or other purposes ; and the grooves, from which two portcullises descended, still denote the obsta cles opposed to an assailing enemy. The surface of the rock, extending to six or seven acres, is disposed in bat teries, or for the accommodation of troops, and what is requisite for a garrison ; and the highest part, up long Bights of stairs, consists of a square, which is used as a parade. A deep draw-well is on the higher part of the castle ; but as the water recedes with the firing of can non, it becomes a precarious resource : and there are in stances of the besieged being obliged to resort to a well without the ramparts, which, on one occasion, an enemy poisoned, and thus forced them to surrender. To sup ply this defect, a capacious cistern has been erected, which is filled by pipes brought into the castle from a reservoir at a distance. There arc numerous cannon on the walls, whose signals have long been devoted to fes tivities only ; and there is a small armoury, which, when full, can contain 30,000 stand of arms. It is said that 2000 men can be accommodated in the castle. Part of the barracks are of recent erection, andby an injudicious and inconsistent style of architecture, have materially impaired the grand and imposing aspect which this for tress presented. King James the Sixth of Scotland, un der whom the island of Britain became one empire, was born here in a small square apartment in the south east part of the castle. The date of his birth is painted on the wall, also the royal arms of Scotland in good preser vation, and some indifferent verses written under them. In a late examination, no date older than 1565 could any where be observed. At the time of the Union, the Scot tish regalia were deposited with much solemnity in a room with strong grated windows ; and the door, which enters from a staircase, is also strongly secured, though not built up. Whether they still remain is uncertain ; but most probably prudential reasons have long ago led to their destruction or removal. They were too danger ous insignia of royalty to lie within the reach of the dis affected during the rebellions of the preceding century. Towards its close, however, a vague report having ari sen, that part of the records of the kingdom were con tained in the same room, a warrant to search it was issued from the office of the secretary of state, addressed to several individuals holding high official situations here. Nothing was found but an old chest covered with dust ; and doubts being started by one of the deputation, whether the words or the warrant contained authority to go farther than simple inspection of the room, the search was abandoned, and an opportunity of ascertaining the fact, not likely to recur, was lost.