22. Though the knowledge of dyeing had now extend ed itself over the more civilized parts of Europe, the principles of the art seem to have been still in a great measure confined to Italy and Venice ; a circumstance which contributed in no small degree, to the prosperity of these states. Accident, however, has frequently led the way to important discoveries, and in some cases contributed more to the improvement of the arts, than the most refined speculation guided by experience. This remark is peculiarly applicable to the discovery of scarlet, one of the most brilliant colours known in dyeing. " The etymology of the term scarlet is involved in some obscu rity. Pezronius thought it of Celtic origin, and that it signified Galaticus rubor. (See Antig. Celt. p. 69 ) But according to Beckmann, Stiler asserts that scarlach is a German word, compoundeu of schor, fire, and lacken, cloth ; while Rerske, on the contrary, derives the word in question from the Arabic scharal, meaning the kermes dye." Sce Bancroft.
23. Whatever be the origin of the term, the colour to which it was applied seems to have been known at a very early period. Beckmann quotes a passage from the Historia Gelrica Pontani, in which it is affirmed, that I4enry III. of France conferred upon the Count of Cleves the Burgraviate of Nimeguen, on condition of his deliver ing to him annually three pieces of scarlet cloth, manufac tured from English wool, (tres pannos scarlatinos 4ngli canos. The same author also refers to a work published in 1211, entitled, n Gervasii Tilberiensis otia Imperialia at Ottonem IV. Imneratorem," from which he quote , the following observation applied to the kermes : " Vermi culus hic est, quo tinguntur pretiosissimi regum panni, sive serici, ut examiti, sive lanei, ut scharlata." The colour, however, to which the term that gave rise to our word scarlet, was then applied, was very different from the colour which now bears that name ; the former ha ving been obtained from the kermes, whereas the latter is procured from cochineal, and exalted in brilliancy by the application of a particular mordant. The insect to which we give the name of cochineal was unknown in Europe before the discovery of America. When the Spaniards first visited Mexico about the year 1518, they observed that the native inhabitants of the country em ployed cochineal for communicating a colour to some parts of their domestic utensils, ornaments, Ste. and also as a dye for cotton. They were so struck with its beau ty, that an account of it was transmitted to the Spanish ministry ; who accordingly, in the year 1523, ordered Cortes to adopt proper measures for increasing the pro duce of a commodity which appeared to be of the utmost value as a dye. The Mexicans are said to have employ ed cochineal as a dye long before they were visited by Europeans, and to have used an aluminous mordant to give it It appears even that for a considerable time alter the introduction of the cochineal into Europe, this was the only mordant employed in dyeing with it ; so that the only colour obtained from cochineal at first must have been a crimson, which we learn indeed was the case, on the testimony of Canepa rills (De 41tramcntis, p. 191.)
About the year 1630, it was accidentally discovered that the nitrate of tin possessed the property of exalting, in a very eminent degree, the colour of this drug, and convert ing it from a dull crimson to an intense and brilliant scar let. Kunckel and some others inform us, that a German chemist, of the name of Kuster or Kuffier, having acciden tally dropped a solution of tin by aquafortis into a decoc tion of cochineal, was the first who observed the singular effect ; while Beckmann asserts, that we owe the disco very of scarlet to a Dutch chemist of the name of Cor nelius Drebbel, who was born in Alkmaar, and died at London in 1634 ; and that Drebbel communicated the discovery to Kuffier, who was then an eminent dyer at Leyden, and afterwards became the son-in-law of Dreb bel. Beckmann also states, that Kuffier soon after took advantage of the discovery, and reduced it to prac tice in his dye-house ; and that the scarlet thus obtained was at first named Kuffler's colour, and afterwards Dutch scarlet. A Flemish painter of the name of Kloeck or Gluck got possession of the secret, either directly from Kuffler himself, or by means of some hints which he had obtained concerning the process employed by the latter. Gluck communicated the information which he had thus procured to the famous Gobelins at Paris ; and another Fleming, named Kepler, carried the secret to England about the year 1643. A dye-house was soon after esta blished at Bow, near London, and hence the new scarlet was for some years called the Bow dye. See Bancroft, vol. i. p. 448.
24. About the year 1662, the Royal Society of Lon don, then recently established, directed their attention to dyeing ; and in order to promote the improvement of the art, desired Dr Haak to prepare a translation of the work, entitled, Plictho, which, as we have already stated, had been published about a century before in Italy. This translation, however, was never executed ; but at that time Sir William Petty, in consequence of a request from the Society, laid before them An Apparatus to the History of the common practice of Dyeing," which afterwards appeared in Dr Spratt's History of the Royal S.• t ts, n I is pet haps the first original neatise on dye h has upptart d in our language. Soon alter, 11 ,s1 • r, se an awitint to the Society of his expe flint 111 on COLOUI ; .11141 towards the conclusion of I 664, the tin lets c nlc nttd that the way of fixing colours *bola I he retommt !Hied to Mr lbws arch Mr Boyle, and Dr Mt rut " TI is recommendation does not appear to h se be en prot•uctive of any use ful discovery in dyeing, or tstn of any improvement of its pr ocesses ; but it sets( I to turn the attention of other members to the sub je t, and un the II th of Nose:tither 1669, " Mr Hook," ss tr• ss, s • lways distinguished by the ingenuity and ori gu dits (1 his produced a piece of calico stain ed r the w ly contrived by hiniscIr, which he was de sired to per Si cute on other colours besides those that appeared in this piece." (Birch, (list. Roy. Soc.