ROME, the ancient capital of the Roman empire, and now the metropolis of the papal dominions, and the residence of the pope, is built chiefly on the left or eastern bank of the Tiber, which here runs in a southerly direction. The area enclosed by the walls of Rome approaches to the form of a square, and their circuit is about 16 miles. This area, however, com prehends an immense extent of nnpeopled land; and a stranger may wander for hours in perfect solitude within the walls. This uninhabited portion of the area is to the south; but to the north of the plain of the Campus Martins, the bustle and activity of life re appears. This closely built part of the city is about two miles long, and from one to one and a half miles broad. In the time of the empire, Rome had 37 gates, 12 of which were double, one for those who entered, and the other for those who returned from the city. At present Rome has 16 gates, including the four of the Citta Leonina, but several of them have been wall ed up; the finest of these gates is the Porta Maggiore, which was originally an arch of the aqueduct of Clau dian. It consists of immense squares of Tiburtine stone without cement, and sustained by huge Ionic columns. The other gates are the Porta del Popolo, on the north, which supplies the place of the ancient Porta Flaminia;—the Porta Sebastian a, which supplies the place of the Porta Capena on the south; the Porta Salaria, or CoBina; the Porta San Paola, which is a substitute for the Porta Ostiensis; the Porta Pia, an ciently the Porta Nomcntana; the Porta San Lorenzo, probably the Porta Tiburtina; the Porta Giovanni, on the great road from Naples, corresponding to the an cient Porta Celimontana. The Porta Latina, between this last gate and the Porta Sebastiana, is blocked up; and close to the Porta Giovanni, on the right, as we leave Rome, is the Porta Asinaria, which is also block ed lip.
The seven hills on which ancient Rome stood, are the Palatine, the Aventine, the Capitol, the Ccelian, the Esquiline, the Quirinal, and the Viminal Hills.
The first five have the appearance of small hills or large mounts; but the Esquiline and the Quirinal, though they have a considerable ascent on the side of Rome, have no descent on the opposite side; and the Viminal hill can no longer be recognized. The Aven tine, Palatine, and Ccelian hills, and also part of the Esquiline, Viminal, and Quirinal Hills, are now co vered with vineyards and corn fields.
The Palatine Hill, which is a square and flat topped elevation, is situated nearly in the middle of the other hills, and contains two solitary villas and a convent. Its numerous temples, palaces, porticos and libraries, are now heaps of shapeless ruins. The part of the im
perial palace which looked to the west still exists, but it is now buried in ruins. The immense hall which was discovered here about a hundred years ago, and the ornaments of which were carried off by the Far nese family, is described by Eustace as an area covered with weeds, and presenting to the eye a vast length of naked Wall.
The Aventine, the most western of the hills, is di vided from the Palatine by the valley of the Circus Maximus. Not a trace remains of any of the ancient and magnificent buildings which covered it. A few decaying churches and convents, half deserted, are the only objects which catch the eye. The principal edi fices that stood on this hill, were the temples of Diana, Juno, and the Dea Bona. The west side of the Aven tine looks clown on the Tiber, and the fields called Prati del Popolo Romano. The Aventine has two distinct summits, divided by a valley. Near the base of the most southern of these, are the gigantic ruins of the baths of Caracalla.
The Capitoline hill was originally called Saturnius, and afterwards Tarpeia. On the western side of the hill are still to be seen some remains of the ancient fortifications of the capitol. In some of the cottages on Monte Caprino, there are walls of extraordinary solidity, which seem to have formed the exterior of one of the towers of the citadel. These walls, built of blocks of peperin stone, are considered to he of the age of Camillus; and, excepting the Cloaca Maxima, to be the oldest Of all the remains of antiquity in Rome. The temple of Jupiter Feretrius is supposed to have occupied this (the western) eminence; and that of Ju piter Capitolinus, the eastern summit of the hill. The common belief is, that the church of Ara Cceli stands on the site of the latter. The small square, having in its centre the equestrian statue of M. Aurelius, and en closed by the three palaces of the senators, the con servatori, and the statue gallery, is supposed to have been the Intermontitwi. Beneath the senators palace are the remains of the south and west sides of an an cient building, consisting of large blocks of peperin stone. It is supposed to have been the Tabularium, where the public records were suspended on tables of bronze. In the interior of this building is an arched corridor of considerable extent, and of a noble style of architecture. The modern buildings on this hill are a convent of bare-footed friars, and the Palazzo Caffarelli, in the stables, cellars, and gardens of which, there are remains of the ancient fortifications of the citadel. The remains of the Julian or Mamertinc prisons are still to be seen near the base of this hill, below the church of St. Pietro in Carcere.