SUTHERLAND, one of the most northerly coun ties of Scotland, extending across the island from the Atlantic to the German Ocean. It is bounded on all sides by the sea, except on the north-east by Caithness, and on the south by Ross-shire. The length, from east to west, varies between 45 and 50 miles, and its breadth, from north to south, between 35 and 50. It contains 1865 square miles of land, and 38 square miles of salt water lakes, or 1,193,940 English acres* of land, and 24,230 of lakes. It is divided into 13 parishes, which belong to the synod of Sutherland and Caithness.
The western coast of Sutherland is a succession of inlets of the sea, variegated with bold promonto ties, and numerous rocks and islets. The interior, which is almost universally wild, rocky and moun tainous, may be divided into three districts. The eastern is a level piece of land on the east coast, about a quarter of a mile broad, and is shel tered from the north by a ridge of mountains, from 300 to 800 feet high. The middle district is occupied by the four straths of the rivers of Helmsdale, Brora, Fleet, and Oickel. Black cattle and sheep form here the wealth of the farmer. The western dis trict, which borders on the Atlantic, is wild and mountainous. The mountains of Ben-mor, Assyant, Glass-bhein, Ben-canap, Benchoinag, or the sugar loaf mountains, Ben-evie, Craig-rou, Benmore, and Stackben are of great altitudes, and though entirely barren, yet at their base they display many exten sive and well managed farms.
There is little more than one acre in a hundred cultivated in this county; the whole extent of culti vated land, grass pastures, and woods not exceeding 60,000 acres. Wheat grows well in the eastern district, and sometimes ripens as early as in Eng land. Since 1818, extensive fields of wheat, drilled on the Norfolk system, have been sown; several hundred acres of turnip have been sown upon the ridge, and excellent crops of barley and clover have been raised. Oats, bear, and potatoes are raised by the small tenants in the inland straths. The number of sheep is calculated at about 140,000, yielding about 18,000 stone of wool, 24 lbs. per stone. The small tenants, on the south-east coast, pay a rent according to the quantity of grain that may be sown, which is from 15s. to 20s. per boll, which is paid partly in money and partly in oatmeal and bear. In other parts the tenants pay in propor tion to the number of black cattle they can support.
The county of Sutherland has derived immense advantages from the admirable establishments of the Marquis of Stafford. Formerly the only man
ufacture was that of kelp, to the extent of 250 tons annually. Very important fisheries are carried on in the west, north and east coasts. At Helmsdale, on the east coast, the Marquis of Stafford has ex pended large sums in erecting buildings necessary for this purpose, and the tenants who had been re moved from their farms have embarked with much success in this new profession. A considerable number of boats are occupied in the cod, ling, had dock, and herring fisheries, on the north and west coasts, where lobsters and mussels are also obtain ed in abundance. In 1814, there were caught at the village of Helmsdale 2400 barrels of herrings. This quantity increased annually, and in 1827 it amounted to 20,600 barrels. In 1814 not a single boat entered this creek, whereas in 1819 no less than 5246 ton of shipping entered there. A regular trade has been established with Leith, and other branches of industry have begun to flourish.
In this county both coal and limestone have been recently discovered. The coal is now wrought to a considerable extent on the little rivulet of Brora, and it is conveyed by a railway to the har bour at its mouth. The small coal is consumed at the salt-works there. It is employed also in burn ing lime and making bricks; it is not so good for domestic purposes. A general account of this coal field is given in our Article SCOTLAND, Vol. XVI. p. 694. and in MINE, Vol. XIII. p. 340. The west coast is in a great measure formed of this mineral; but as it is in many cases combined with magnesia, its utility as a manure is diminished. It is also found in some parts of the interior. The marble quarries of Lechmore and Leadbeg, yielding a pure white marble, like alabastar, were for some years wrought by Mr. Jopling from Newcastle, but we understand they were abandoned on account of the magnesia. A fine black marble, streaked with yel low veins, is found at Edderachillis. Near t ho coast the limestone is sometimes found in the state of marble. Traces of ancient iron mines are sat d to have been found on the west coast. Gold is found near Helmsdale, garnets on the coast, in the parish of Tongue, and it is said that lead ore rich in silver, and a vein of black manganese, have been found near the Dornoch Frith. Purple fluor spar is found in the gneiss and granite. White actynolite, approach ing to tremolite, is found near Standa, and schis tose actynolite is also found in the county.