If failures from insufficient exposure are to be avoided, shutter exposures should only be attempted in a suitable light. The most favourable time of the year is in the month of June, when the light is at its best. Strong sun shine does not always give the best results, for if the sun be behind the camera, flatness generally results, and if it be to the right or left, the cast shadows are sometimes very heavy ; and negatives taken under such conditions—that is to say, showing strongly marked contrasts of light and shade—are very difficult to develop successfully, because the brilliantly-lighted portions of the picture develop up quickly and attain an undue amount of density before the detail can be brought out in the shadows, and a hard and crude print is very often the result. There are many days when the light is very bright and actinic, although the sun may not be actually shining, and such occasions will b6 found best for this kind of work Days when heavy masses of white cloud are floating about, and at times partially obscuring the brilliancy of the sun, are also very suitable, particularly when marine or river work is being undertaken. The nearer the moving object is to the camera, the quicker the exposure that will be necessary, and in order that the photographer may know the proper moment at which to make the exposure, a " finder " should be attached to the camera. The simplest and best form is that known as the " Aptus," which consists of an ordinary bi-concave lens mounted in a light frame. The image can always be dis tinctly seen in this form of finder, whereas with the box, or camera obscures form, it is difficult to see the image if the light be bright. Many good effects are lost, or at any rate marred, by indecision in making the exposure. " He who hesitates is lost" should certainly be the maxim of the photographer, and directly the desired composition or effect is seen reflected in the finder the exposure should be made without further delay.
The development of a plate which has received a very brief shutter exposure is naturally a more difficult matter than the development of one to which an approximately correct time exposure has been given, and in order to got the best results some modification of the developer will be necessary. The method I adopt (and I find it succeeds well with most plates) is to soak the plate in a weak alkaline solution previous to applying the developer. I measure out 20 minims of the 10 per cent. solution of ammonia, and place it in a clean measure, adding 2 ounces of water. After stirring the solution I pour it over the plate, and allow it to soak therein for about ten minutes, the dish being covered with a piece of cardboard. I prefer to use for this
kind of work a plain pyro. developer, for I find it gives better gradation and more detail than one containing a preservative. Three grains of dry pyre. should be placed in the measure and dissolved in 2 oz. of water, 20 miniins of the 10 per cent. ammonia solution, and 20 minims of the 10 per cent. bromide solution being added. The deve loper should be thoroughly mixed by stirring, and (the weak alkaline solution in which it has been soaking having been thrown away) applied to the plate. Now the secret of success in developing negatives which have received shutter exposures is patience. The first impulse will be to put a lot of accelerator in the developer with a view of forcing out the linage. This, however, would be a great mistake, and the tentative or gradual system of develop ment should not be departed from. The plate should be gently rocked in order to prevent the formation of a mottled appearance on the negative, which is liable to occur if the developer be not kept in motion.
In about three to five minutes the image should appear, and development should be allowed to proceed as far as possible without adding more ammonia. If, however, the image does not gain in detail, 10 minims of ammonia a,nd 5 minims of bromide may be added. The solution during this time will have become more or less dark in colour, and will to some extent stain the negative ; if it becomes very dirty, a fresh developer of the same strength should be mixed, and before applying it the plate should be rinsed under the tap. If development flags, cautious additions of ammonia may be made from time to time with half the quantity of bromide ; but the point to be observed is to allow each addition sufficient time to do its work. In some cases it may take half an hour, or even longer to develop a shutter exposed plate.
Beginners are sometimes recommended to commence with a detective camera, and, unfortunately for photography and for themselves, they frequently follow the advice. A detec tive camera in the hands of a novice is both a delusion and a, snare. I have met a great many amateurs who have commenced in this way, but I have met with few who, unaided, have succeeded in producing even passa,ble results. The truth is that successful work with a detective camera is not such an easy thing as it looks, and it requires no inconsiderable practice and knowledge before it can be used with a. certainty of producing good results; therefore I would strongly advise the beginner to defer the purchase of one until he has obtained some experience in working with an ordina,ry caraera mounted on a tripod, and can turn out decent negatives with a reasonable amount of certainty.