The first process to which the fur is sub mitted is known as "carroting,* a chemical cleansing with a solution of nitrate of mercury. This has the effect of opening the upper edges of the nested rings of which true fur is com posed, leaving a sort of serrated texture which permits the interlocking of the fibres under the influence of moisture and pressure into a true felt. This preliminary treatment of the fur is generally carried out in a so-called afur fac tory,* the prepared fur after being sheared close to the skin being delivered to the hat maker for the separation of such of the fibre as is suitable for his purpose, the remainder being returned to the fur factory to be used in other ways. At the hat factory the various furs are mixed in established proportions and thrown into a mechanical mixer in which the teeth on swiftly revolving wheels tear the fibres apart from one another. The fluffy mass is then put into a blowing machine in which currents of air at varying velocities deposit the fibres of different weights on different travel ing belts, which in turn carry them to other revolving toothed separators, until the in termixture is as complete as possible. The mixed and blown fur is then divided by weigh ing into portions, each suitable for the making of one hat. One such portion is taken by the operator of the forming machine who spreads it upon an apron which feeds into one end of a boxed-in machine. At the farther end of the box there is a large perforated cone of sheet copper, revolving rapidly over a funnel, under which there is a powerful suction fan at work. As the attendant carefully feeds the fur to the machine in the proper quantity it is carried by the apron toward the cone. The suction of air attract.; this fur and causes it to adhere to the surface of the cone. This con tinues until the cone is covered with a sufficient quantity of fur to make the hat. The whole operation requires only two or three minutes. As soon as the cone has accumulated the neces sary fur a wet cloth is thrown over it, and a second cone, larger in dimension, is placed over that. Both are immersed in a tank of hot water for a few moments. This is the first stage of the felting. It causes the adhesion of the various fibres. The operator slips this conical body from the cone. It is now a cone of fur about three feet in height and six feet around the base, and one-eighth of an inch in thickness.
Sizing, as the felting is termed, is the next process. The body, which has just been re moved from the cone, is placed in a sizing ket tle, where it is shrunk in hot water. Continu ous kneading and rolling further reduces it in size. It still retains its cone shape, but it is now firmly felted. Care as well as skill is re quired to ensure the even shrinking and the uniform distribution of the fur. Failure in any detail will cause streaks and weak spots in the finished article. The hat is now ready for dyeing. It is immersed in a great color vat and dyed to meet the prevailing fashion. Great improvements have been made in this detail during the past few years. The old wood color ings have been discarded, and coal-tar products are now used because they have been found more serviceable and increase the durability of the hat. Up to this point the manufacturing of stiff and soft hats has been along similar lines, but from this time on different .methods are used. After dyeing the next step is to stiffen the hat slightly by the application of °water stiff,* a weak solution of shellac. The brim receives a much stronger stiffening. The body is now beginning to assume a definite form. It is stretched, blocked and pulled, and; with the aid of hot water, steam and ingenious machinery, it is given stability of shape and form. The rough surface must now be cut off.
This operation requires great care. If too much of the fur is removed all the previous skilled manipulation becomes valueless and the hat is ruined. This operation is known as "pounc ing.° It was formerly accomplished with a great deal of hand labor. It is now done by a machine and emery paper. This machine is a great time saver, and greatly facilitates the pro duction of the plant. The crown is next given its shape, as demanded by the style. It is stretched over wooden blocks, ironed and re-ironed, then dried. It is next placed in an oven and heated and then placed in a steel mold into which it is pressed evenly and firmly by a rubber bag through which water is being pumped. The cool water sets the felt in the shape of the mold. It must then be carefully pounced by hand and steamed to tighten the felt. The brim must be treated exactly the same way, al though it is not given shape at this time. Only men of skill and experience can engage in this portion of the work. There is a knack about pouncing by hand that can be acquired only by experience.
The hat is next flanged, or, rather, the brim is given its shape. The brim is placed upon a flange of metal or wood so as not to affect the crown. The entire hat resting on the flange is then placed under a huge receptacle containing heated sand and having on the under side a heavy cotton fabric, which comes in direct con tact with the felt. After remaining in this posi tion for several minutes the brim of the hat has its correct shape and trimming is in order. The turning up and edging each play an im portant part in the final process of shaping. In trimming artistic treatment is a necessity. Care must be taken in attaching the bands and bind ings to preserve the neatness as well as the character of the design. The insertion of the sweat leather must be carefully done. All these and other details add greatly to the ap pearance and durability of the finished product.
The stiffening of the derby, better known as "the stiff hat," because of the character of the felting, is an interesting process. The hat body is impregnated with a solution of shellac and alcohol of given density. This substance is carefully worked into the heart of the body, and as a result the felting attains a condition of firmness. The hat is then placed on a wooden block, is immersed in hot water and is given the proper proportion and shape before the final pressing. At the conclusion of this opera tion the superfluous gum is cleared away by a soda bath. When dry the hat is rigid through out. It is then placed in an oven and kept there until it becomes pliable. A mold, to which tremendous pressure is given by mechani cal or hydraulic means, completes the pressing after the derby has been pounced or finished. The pouncing of a derby is done upon a lathe. It is placed on a wooden block similar to the molds used in pressing. Should the operator cut off too much of the surface fur, thus destroying the nap, the stiffening will be ex posed and the work of the skilled men who pre ceded him loses its value. The binding is then put around the brim. Curling or shaping of the brim is done usually with a press, but in the finer grades of hats it is done by hand with a variety of small tools, heat, steam, deftness of fingers and a good eye. The work of some of the experts who develop the stiff hat brims by the eye is little less than marvelous. The trimming, etc., of stiff hats require even greater care than in the case of soft hats.